ITALY - Best of Europe 2014 - page 1022

Sora Margherita, hiding without a sign on a cluttered square, has been a rustic neigh-
borhood favorite since 1927. Amid a picturesque commotion, families chow down on old-
time Roman and Jewish dishes for a decent price. It's technically not a real restaurant (it
avoids red tape by officially registering itself an associazione culturale )—you can even sign
a card to join the “cultural association” (don't worry; membership has no obligations except
that you enjoy your meal). The menu's crude term for the fettuccini gives you some idea of
the mood of this place: nazzica culo (“shaky ass”—what happens while it's made). Reserva-
tionsarealmostalwaysnecessary(€10pastas,€12 secondi ;Sept-MayMon-Sat12:30-15:00,
dinner seatings on Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat at 20:00 and 21:30, closed Sun; June-July same
hoursexceptclosedSat,closedinAug,justsouthofViadelPorticod'OttaviaatPiazzadelle
Cinque Scole 30—look for the red curtain, tel. [phone]).
In the Pantheon Neighborhood
For the restaurants in this central area, I've listed them based on which landmark they're
closest to: Campo de' Fiori, Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain, or the Pantheon itself.
On and near Campo de' Fiori
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here . )
While it is touristy, Campo de' Fiori offers a sublimely romantic setting. And, since it's so
close to the heart of the Roman people, it remains popular with locals, even though its res-
taurants offer greater atmosphere than food value. The square is lined with popular and in-
teresting bars,pizzerias, andsmallrestaurants—all greatforpeople-watching overaglassof
wine. Later at night it's taken over by a younger clubbing crowd.
Osteria da Giovanni ar Galletto is nearby, on the more elegant and peaceful Piazza
Farnese. Angelo entertains an upscale Roman clientele and has magical outdoor seating.
Regrettably, service can be horrible, you need to double-check the bill, and single diners
aren't treated very well. Still, if you're in no hurry and ready to savor my favorite al fresco
setting in Rome (while humoring the waiters), this can be a good bet (€12 pastas, €15-20
secondi, Mon-Sat 12:15-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Sun, reservations smart for outdoor
seating, tucked in corner of Piazza Farnese at #104, tel. [phone]).
OsteriaEnotecaalBric isamodbistrorunbyhelpfulRobertoandBarbara,wholoveto
cook,servefinewine,andlistentojazz.Wine-caselidsdecoratethewalllikehappymemor-
ies. They offer a fun, €22 happy-hour deal for two from 19:30 to 20:30 that includes a plate
of cheeses and meats, two glasses of good wine, water, and bread (Tue-Sun from 19:30 for
dinner, closed Mon, reserve if dining after 20:30, can be pricey, 100 yards off Campo de'
Fiori at Via del Pellegrino 51, tel. [phone]).