Travel Reference
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VineriaSalumeriaRoscioli isanelegant enoteca that'sahitwithlocalfoodies,soreser-
vations are a must. While it's just a salami toss away from touristy Campo de' Fiori, you'll
dine with classy locals, and feel like you're sitting in a romantic (and expensive) deli after
hours. They have a good selection of fine cheeses, meats, local dishes, and top-end wines by
the glass (€15-25 plates, Mon-Sat 12:30-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Sun, 3 blocks east of
Campo de' Fiori at Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 06-687-5287).
FilettidiBaccalà isacheapandbasicRomanclassic,wherenostalgicregularscraminto
wooden tables and savor their old-school favorites—fried cod finger-food fillets (€5 each)
and raw puntarelle greens (slathered with anchovy sauce in spring and winter). Study what
others are eating, and order from your grease-stained server by pointing at what you want.
Sit in the fluorescently lit interior or try to grab a seat out on the little square, a quiet haven
a block east of Campo de' Fiori (Mon-Sat 17:30-23:00, closed Sun, cash only, Largo dei
Librari 88, tel. 06-686-4018). If you're not into greasy spoons, avoid this place.
TrattoriaderPallaro, aneccentricandwell-worneaterythathasnomenu,hasaslogan:
“Here, you'll eat what we want to feed you.” Paola Fazi—with a towel wrapped around her
head turban-style—and her gang dish up a five-course meal of homey Roman food. You
have three menu choices: €25 for the works; €20 for appetizers, secondi , and dessert; or €15
forappetizersandpasta.Anyoptionisfilling,includeswineandcoffee,andiscappedwitha
thimble of mandarin juice. While the service can be odd and the food is rustic, the experien-
ce is fun (daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, reserve if dining after 20:00, cash only, indoor/
outdoor seating on quiet square, a block south of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, down Largo del
Chiavari to Largo del Pallaro 15, tel. 06-6880-1488).
Pizzeria da Baffetto 2 makes pizza Roman-style: thin crust, crispy, and wood-fired.
Eat in the cramped informal interior, or outside on the busy square (€7-9 pizzas, daily
18:30-24:00, Sat-Sun also open for lunch 12:30-15:30, a block north of Campo de' Fiori at
Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18, tel. 06-6821-0807).
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