Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
In the 1960s, movie stars from around the world paraded down curvy Via Veneto, one of
Rome's glitziest nightspots. Today it's still lined with the city's poshest hotels and the US
Embassy, but any hint of local color has faded to bland.
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Capuchin Crypt
Ifyouwanttoseeartisticallyarrangedbones,thisistheplace.ThecryptisbelowtheChurch
of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione at Via Veneto 27, just up from Piazza Barber-
ini.In2012,churchofficialsaddedanewsix-roommuseum,whichshowstheclothing,foot-
wear, books, and other religious artifacts used by members of the order. For most travelers,
however, the morbid attraction remains the crypt.
The bones of more than 4,000 friars who died between 1528 and 1870 are in the base-
ment, all lined up in a series of six crypts for the delight—or disgust—of the always-wide-
eyedvisitor.Themonasticmessageonthewallexplainsthatthisismorethanjustamacabre
exercise: “We were what you are...you will become what we are now.”
As you leave (humming “the foot bone's connected to the...”), pick up a few of Rome's
most interesting postcards—the proceeds support Capuchin mission work. Head back out-
side, where it's not just the bright light that provides contrast with the crypt. Within a few
stepsare:theUSEmbassy,HardRockCafe,andfancyViaVenetocafés,filledwiththepoor
and envious keeping an eye out for the rich and famous.
Cost and Hours:
€6, daily 9:00-19:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, modest
dress required, no photos, turn off mobile phones, Metro: Barberini, tel. 06-487-1185.
This vast oval square marks the traditional north entrance to Rome. From ancient times until
the advent of trains and airplanes, this was just about any visitor's first look at Rome. Today
the square, known for its symmetrical design and its art-filled churches, is the starting point
FromtheFlaminioMetrostop,passthroughthethird-centuryAurelianWallviathePorta
del Popolo, and look south. The 10-story obelisk in the center of the square once graced the
temple of Ramses II in Egypt and the Roman Circus Maximus racetrack. The obelisk was
brought here in 1589 as one of the square's beautification projects. (The piazza's oval shape
dates from the early 19th century.) At the south side of the square, twin domed churches
mark the spot where three main boulevards exit the square and form a trident. The central
boulevard (running between the churches) is Via del Corso, which since ancient times has
beenthemainnorth-southdragthroughtown,runningtoCapitolineHill(thegoverningcen-
ter) and the Forum.
