Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Along the north side of the square (flanking the Porta del Popolo) are two 19th-century
buildings that give the square its pleasant symmetry: the Carabinieri station and the Church
of Santa Maria del Popolo.
Two large fountains grace the sides of the square—Neptune to the west and Roma to the
east (marking the base of Pincio Hill). Though the name Piazza del Popolo means “Square
of the People” (and it is a popular hangout), the word was probably derived from the Latin
populus, after the poplar trees which once stood here.
Church of Santa Maria del Popolo
One of Rome's most overlooked churches, this features two chapels with top-notch art and
a facade built of travertine scavenged from the Colosseum. The church is brought to you by
theRoverefamily,whichproducedtwopopes,andyou'llseetheirsymbol—theoaktreeand
acorns—throughout.
Go inside. The Chigi Chapel (second on the left) was designed by Raphael and inspired
(as Raphael was) by the Pantheon. Notice the Pantheon-like dome, pilasters, and capitals.
Above in the oculus, God looks in, aided by angels who power the eight known planets.
RaphaelbuiltthechapelforhiswealthybankerfriendAgostinoChigi,buriedinthepyramid-
shaped tomb in the wall to the right of the altar. Later, Chigi's great-grandson hired Bernini
to make two of the four statues, and Bernini delivered a theatrical episode. In one corner,
Daniel straddles a lion and raises his praying hands to God for help. Kitty-corner across the
chapel, an angel grabs Habbakuk's hair and tells him to go take some food to poor Daniel.
In the Cerasi Chapel (left of altar), Caravaggio's The Conversion on the Way to Damas-
cus showsPaulsprawledonhisbackbesidehishorsewhilehisservantlookson.Thestartled
future saint is blinded by the harsh light as Jesus' voice asks him, “Why do you persecute
me?” In the style of the Counter-Reformation, Paul receives his new faith with open arms.
In the same chapel, Caravaggio's Crucifixion of St. Peter is shown as a banal chore; the
workers toil like faceless animals. The light and dark are in high contrast. Caravaggio liked
to say, “Where light falls, I will paint it.”
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 7:00-12:00 & 16:00-18:30, Sun 8:00-13:30 &
16:30-19:30, often partially closed to accommodate its busy schedule of Masses, on north
side of Piazza del Popolo—as you face the gate in the old wall from the square, the church
entrance is to your right.
▲▲▲ Catacombs of Priscilla (Catacombe di Priscilla)
While most tourists and nearly all tour groups go out to the ancient Appian Way to see the
famous catacombs of San Sebastiano and San Callisto, the Catacombs of Priscilla (on the
other side of town) are less commercialized and crowded, and just feel more intimate, as
catacombs should.
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