Graphics Reference
In-Depth Information
mold maker. Fill the mold so that it covers the
skulls by about a half inch, or close to the top
of the mold.
I don't know how effective these measures
are, but I did not have any problems with
bubbles or the mold material losing detail.
Let the poured mold set for 24 hours and fol-
low the heat curing instructions. Read the
I covered the bottom of the thinner
walled-mold with black liquid tape
(liquid rubber), as shown in
Figure 21-8
. I was worried that the
model was not completely water-
tight, but I don't think this is actual-
ly necessary. The Smooth-Sil 940
was so thick that it wouldn't have
leaked out before setting up any-
way.
Figure 21-6.
Ready to pour!
I don't have access to a vacuum degasser
(yet), so to help prevent bubbles from form-
ing in the mold, I placed it on a subwoofer
while music with heavy bass was playing
(
Figure 21-7
). I also used an electric tooth-
brush without the brush head attached to
vibrate the bottom and sides of the outside
of the mold to get bubbles to come to the
top.
Figure 21-8.
Mold form coated with “liquid tape”
3. Demold
In order to remove the silicone mold from the
3D-printed mold form, you will probably
have to destroy the 3D-printed form com-
pletely. I tore mine completely apart. Some
of the skulls had to be removed one by one.
Overall it was pretty easy to demold, once I
accepted that I was going to destroy the
Figure 21-7.
Alleviating bubbles with a subwoofer
