With a jaw-dropping view of the Sungai
Ayung Valley below and the tops of palm
trees stretching west, the Sayan Terrace is
the place to gaze off into space. Many of the
hotels built along here are luxury properties
where rooms start at well over US$300. Here
you can enjoy the verdant views for a fraction
of the price. The 11 rooms are large and open
onto terraces; the cheapest are best value.
Don't expect décor out of books like Bali
Style, but that doesn't matter when you sink
back on the lounging chairs and wonder at
the panorama in front of you. This is the site
of Colin McPhee's A House in Bali; see p181
for details. Once here, you'll understand why
he built his house here.
enclave of the ARMA compound (see p178 for
details about the excellent museum and p185
for details of the range of courses offered).
The resort features fine views, imaginative
architecture and attractive décor. Villas come
with private pools.
Bali Spirit Hotel & Spa (Map pp176-7 ;
rooms and villas. Many have private pools and
all share the same amazing views. At night you
hear just the water rushing below.
Amandari (Map pp176-7 ;
Campuan & Penestanan
Just west of the Campuan bridge, steep Jl Raya
Penestanan branches off to the left, and climbs
up and around to Penestanan. Stay on the east
side going uphill for valley views.
Taman Indrakila Hotel (Map pp176-7 ;
) In Kedewatan
village, the Amandari is unquestionably classy
with superb views over the paddies and down
to the river - the 30m green-tiled swimming
pool seems to drop right over the edge. The
30 private pavilions have stone gateways and
private gardens. They are spacious and exqui-
sitely decorated. Some have their own private
.com; ste from US$675;
) One of Ubud's
best deals; eight airy rooms tumble down the
Sungai Cerik valley. Views from the bedrooms
and verandas are sweeping. The ovoid pool is
an oasis, the staff gracious.
Pager Bungalows (Map pp176-7 ;
Jl Raya Sanggingan; r US$15-35;
.balispirithotel.com; Nyuh Kuning Village; r US$100-160;
) Overlooking the Wos Valley, the
Bali Spirit has stylish rooms and stunning
views. The 19 rooms tumble down the hillside
and feature Balinese artworks and antiques.
The spring-fed pool sits in a tropical bowl
down by the rapids. There's complimentary
975433; Jl Raya
Campuan; r 150,000-300,000Rp, family villas 500,000Rp) Run
by painter Nyoman Pageh and his family,
this cute homestay hugs a hillside location
back from the main road. Cheapest are two
large bungalows that face the compound. Five
more rooms are comfortable and look into the
recesses of the dense river valley. The family
villa is a fully appointed apartment.
Anom Cottages (Map pp176-7 ;
NORTHWEST OF UBUD
Alila Ubud (Map p201 ;
975963; www.alilahotels.com; r
) Near Pay-
angan, the Alila offers great views and modern
luxury amid rural tranquillity. It has a stun-
ning ebony pool that rises out of the green like
a stark vision. Rooms are lined with natural
wood and entire sides open up so guests can
savour the views (which are better in some
Ubud's restaurants are some of the best on
Bali. It's a good place to try authentic Bal-
inese dishes, as well as a range of other Asian
and international cuisine. The quintessen-
tial Ubud restaurant has fresh ingredients,
a delightful ambience and an eclectic menu,
with dishes fusing inspiration from around
Many make beautiful use of natural de-
sign elements and some offer serene settings
with views out over the rice fields. Cafés
where you can sip an excellent coffee or juice
are all the rage - some people never seem
to leave. There are also many inexpensive
warung serving Indonesian dishes. Many of
the places listed under Drinking (p197) also
serve food. And don't wait past 9pm to eat
or you won't.
The small local chain of convenience
stores, Delta Mart , is useful for snacks and
sundries. Among the many are two central
locations (Both: Map p188; Monkey Forest Rd;
WEST OF THE CENTRE
Properties generally go from posh to posher
as you near the fabled Ayung Valley.
from US$250, villa US$450;
At this price range you have your choice of
prime properties in the area. The big decision:
close to town or not. Look for views, expansive
pools, rooms with architectural features such
as marble and/or outdoor bathrooms and a
full range of amenities. Many hotels provide
shuttle service around the Ubud area.
cottage.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; r 300,000-350,000Rp;
Samhita Garden (Map pp176-7 ;
Six art-filled bungalows are scattered around
this hillside compound. Upstairs rooms have
sweeping views of the river valley. Amenities
include fridges and satellite TV.
Sri Ratih Cottages (Map pp176-7 ;
garden.com; Jl Bisma; r US$85, villa US$250;
the moment you step through the traditional
entrance this small boutique hotel charms.
There are 11 rooms and two villas, the latter
with private plunge pools. All have traditional
alang alang (woven thatch) ceilings and the
balconies are draped in white bougainvillea.
The mosaic-tiled pool is spectacular.
dps.centrin.net.id; Jl Raya Penestanan; r US$20-40;
Ubud Village Hotel & Resort (Map p188 ;
There's a pool with a view of the lotus flower-
inspired roof of Antonio Blanco's house, spa-
cious grounds and 26 clean if simply designed
rooms here, some fan-only. Breakfasts are
bounteous and fruitful.
Melati Cottages (Map pp176-7 ;
www.theubudvillage.com; Monkey Forest Rd; r US$80-150,
villas from US$350;
) Close to Ubud's urban
action - such as it is - the Village features a
big pool, lush garden and 28 tasteful, fully
equipped rooms and 25 posh new villas with
rice field views and small private pools.
Barong Resort (Map p188 ;
Ibah Luxury Villas & Spa (Map pp176-7 ;
.ibahbali.com; off Jl Raya Campuan; suites US$150-500;
firstname.lastname@example.org; off Jl Raya Penestanan; r US$25-35;
Quack like a classic Ubud rice-field duck as you
stroll out to these traditional-style rooms set
around a café by a pool. You can walk in from
the north or south. After dark, listen to nature's
night music wafting in from the fields.
Hotel Tjampuhan (Map pp176-7 ;
) Overlooking the lush Wos Valley,
the Ibah offers an elegant environment, su-
perb spa facilities (see p182), and 15 spacious,
stylish individual suites and villas which com-
bine rustic and modern details. The swim-
ming pool is set into the hillside beneath an
ancient-looking stone wall.
-resort.com; Monkey Forest Rd; villas from US$150;
) Eleven walled villas are hidden
away in this discreet compound in central
Ubud. The design is contemporary with Bal-
inese flair in the use of natural materials. The
marble bathrooms are large and roomy.
Komaneka Resort & Spa (Map p188 ;
.com/hotels/tjampuhan; Jl Raya Campuan; r US$70, with air-con
www.komaneka.com; Monkey Forest Rd; r from US$200;
) This venerable place overlooks
the confluence of Sungai Wos and Campuan.
The influential German artist Walter Spies
lived here in the 1930s, and his former home,
which sleeps four people (US$175), is now
part of the hotel. There are shared garden
bungalows that spill down the hill. The two
swimming pools have verdant views in all
directions. See p182 for details of the spa.
Sayan & Ayung Valley
Two kilometres west of Ubud, the fast flowing
Sungai Ayung has carved out a deep valley, its
sides sculpted into terraced paddy fields or
draped in thick rainforest. Overlooking this
verdant valley are some of the most stylish,
luxurious and expensive hotels on Bali.
Four Seasons Resort (Map pp176-7;
) Set back behind a burbling foun-
tain, this 20-unit resort exudes contemporary,
minimalist elegance. Rooms are beautifully
decorated in rough-hewn furniture and fea-
ture sunken marble tubs. The Komaneka Art
Gallery (p180) is at the front of the hotel. See
p182 for details of the spa.
For organic foods, try Bali Buddha (see p195).
The new Bintang Supermarket (Map pp176-7 ;
Bintang Centre, Jl Raya Campuan) is well located and
has a large range of food and other essen-
.fourseasons.com; ste from US$550, villa from US$575;