Ubud & Around - Bali and Lombok

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

Central Ubud

JL RAYA UBUD

There are broad choices on Ubud's main

street.

Rendez vousdoux (Map p188 ;

the glow of tiki torches for a magical effect.

By day there are sandwiches, salads and ge-

lato. At night there's a fusion menu of Asian

classics, pasta and steaks. Local children's art

decorates the walls.

Coffee & Silver (Map p188 ;

range of the kitchen. The wine list by the glass

is long and welcome.

Kafe Batan Waru (Map p188 ;

hard-to-find Balinese desserts, such as the

Moorish jaja Bali (sticky rice, coconut, palm

sugar and fruit steamed in banana leaves). You

can book a traditional meal (30,000Rp per

person; minimum five people) in advance.

Ketut's

977528; Jl Dewi Sita;

dishes 20,000-70,000Rp) This café serves consistently

excellent Indonesian food. Tired of tired mie

gorengs made from instant noodles? With noo-

dles made fresh daily, this version celebrates

a lost art. Western dishes include sandwiches

and salads. Smoked duck ( bebek betutu ) and

suckling pig ( babi guling ) can be ordered

in advance. Patio tables are a pleasure.

747 0163; Jl Raya

) This cute place

is a fusion of French-accented forms: café,

library and bookshop. There's a light menu,

global music (at times live) and historic films

on Ubud on loop.

Casa Luna (Map p188 ;

Place

Ubud 14; dishes 20,000-35,000Rp;

975354; Monkey For-

(Map

pp176-7 ;

975304;

)

Tapas and more substantial items make up the

menu at this comfortable place with seating

inside and out. Vintage photos of Ubud line

the walls. Good coffee drinks and free wi-fi.

The Waroeng (Map p188;

est Rd; dishes 20,000-70,000Rp;

10am-midnight;

Jl Suweta 40; feast 100,000Rp;

Sun, Wed & Fri night)

Ketut's famous traditional Balinese feast is

an excellent introduction to Balinese life and

customs. The range of tasty dishes covers just

about everything from bebek betutu (smoked

duck) to various bamboo-skewer satays made

from minced meats - a classic Balinese style

of satay that varies from the little chunks of

meat elsewhere in Indonesia and Asia. Other

dishes include a piquant jukut ares (banana

tree curry), a delightful something we call

'tapioca surprise' and unusual palm sugar

desserts. It's very sociable and you'll have fun

just comparing some of the fruits not found

at any supermarket at home. Call to con-

firm times and book; see p191 for details of

accommodation.

977409; Jl Raya Ubud; dishes

10,000-50,000Rp) One of Ubud's top choices has a

creative Indonesian-focused menu and a deli-

cious range of bread, pastries, cakes and more

from its well-known bakery. The bamboo skew-

ers on the addictive seafood satay will skewer

your heart. The owner, Janet de Neefe, runs

regular Balinese cooking courses (see p185).

Nomad (Map p188 ;

970928; Monkey Forest Rd;

dishes from 15,000Rp) A small and artful upmarket

warung with wooden benches and music befit-

ting its owners (they're behind the Jazz Cafe -

see p197). Create your own nasi campur

(steamed rice with meat and vegetable side

dishes) from an array of fresh items.

Bumbu Bali 2 (Map p188 ;

JL GOUTAMA

Toko Tako (Map p188; Jl Goutama; tea 3000Rp) This tiny

outdoor Japanese teashop is an ethereal vision

at night when scores of tiny lanterns cast their

glow. Enjoy chai, coffee and juices.

Kintarou (Map p188 ;

746 2550; Jl Goutama; dishes

5000-25,000Rp) A cute little juice and Balinese

food café run by engaging guys. A bonus for

all customers is the free sample of their house-

made glycerine soaps.

Dewa Warung (Map p188; Jl Goutama; dishes 5000-

10,000Rp) You feel like you're at a rural warung

with its shady position elevated above the

street. Enjoy fresh and authentic local stand-

ards under the tin roof.

977169; Jl Raya Ubud; dishes

15,000-60,000Rp) There's a daily barbeque and

often a gamelan player as well. Balinese

food is served in tapas-sized portions. It's a

good central spot for a drink, especially back

in the dark corners.

Café Lotus (Map p188 ;

976698; Monkey Forest

Rd; dishes 15,000-45,000Rp) Unlike the varied Asian

cuisine at the original a few hundred metres

north, the menu here is almost entirely Ba-

linese featuring items such as lawar (green

bean salad), bebek betutu (smoked duck) and

sate lilit (minced meat and grated coconut

skewers). It's a large and attractive place.

Café Wayan & Bakery (Map p188 ;

East of the Centre

Masakan Padang (Map pp176-7; Jl Hanoman; dishes 6000-

12,000Rp;

975357; Jl Raya Ubud; dishes

25,000-55,000Rp) A leisurely meal at this Ubud

classic overlooking the lotus pond is a relaxing

treat for many when they first arrive in Ubud.

The menu features Western and Indonesian

fare that's well prepared. For 50,000Rp you

can book front-row seats for dance perform-

ances at Pura Taman Saraswati (see p175).

Ryoshi (Map p188 ;

noon-1am) This Padang-style eatery -

where you choose from the plates on display -

has some of the freshest, tastiest eats in town.

Food is fresh and much of it is spicy.

Warung Igelanca (Map pp176-7;

975447; Monkey

Forest Rd; mains 20,000-50,000Rp) Another old Ubud

favourite, Café Wayan has relaxed a garden-

setting ambience. Its food and baked goods

draw many repeat customers, especially up-

scale locals. Sunday night Balinese buffets

(120,000Rp) are a festive treat.

NORTH OF JL RAYA UBUD

Warung Ibu Oka (Map p188; Jl Suweta; dishes 7000-

10,000Rp;

11am-4pm) You'll see lunchtime

crowds opposite Ubud Palace waiting for one

thing: the eponymous Balinese-style roast

suckling pig. Line up and find a place under

the shelter for one of the best meals you'll have

in Ubud. Order a spesial to get the best cut.

Bumbu Bali Restaurant (Map p188 ;

974153; Jl Raya

Ubud; dishes 8000-15,000Rp) Noodle fans rejoice;

this orzo-sized street side den has 'em in

everything, from a Jakarta chicken noodle

soup to North Sumatra fried rice noodles.

Surya's Warung (Map pp176-7 ;

972192; Jl Raya Ubud; dishes 25,000-

11am-midnight) The Ubud branch of the

local chain of good Japanese sushi restaurants

is attractively perched off the road.

Ary's Warung (Map p188 ;

60,000Rp;

EAST OF MONKEY FOREST RD

Deli Cat (Map p188;

971284; off Monkey Forest Rd; dishes

15,000-35,000Rp; 10am-midnight) A character-filled

place filled with characters, Deli Cat is like a

little tropical bodega. Wine - some delight-

fully cheap - is sold along with snacks, cheese

and meaty mains. Try the little grilled saus-

ages outside at the tables right on the football

field. Many people end their Ubud evenings

with a nightcap here.

Tutmak Café (Map p188 ;

0813-3805 2998;

Jl Raya Ubud; dishes 15,000-20,000Rp) A simple street

side place with a menu of Thai and Indonesian

food with one twist: organic baby food. Carrot

and banana goop? Yum!

Warung Taman (Map pp176-7; Jl Sriwedari; dishes 10,000-

30,000Rp;

978359; Jl Raya Ubud;

mains 30,000-90,000Rp) The name Ary's Warung is

something of a misnomer crisp table linen,

architectural food presentation, well-trained

waiters and high prices won't be found in any

other warung. The spare design opens the

ground floor to the street. Alluring bar.

974217; Jl

Suweta 1; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp) Balinese, Indian

and vegetarian influences combine at this ex-

cellent restaurant where many of its candle-lit

tables face Ubud Palace. Dishes are inventive

and the flavours complex.

Terazo (Map p188 ;

lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) The woks are busy

at this neighbourhood warung, which serves

consistently good Indonesian and Chinese

food. Rough-hewn tables and friendly staff

make it a relaxed choice.

Bali Buddha (Map pp176-7 ;

978941; Jl Suweta; dishes 30,000-

80,000Rp) A popular place serving stylish, ec-

lectic Balinese fusion cuisine. The wine list is

long and features numerous French, Italian

and Australian choices. The spare interior

is accented by evocative vintage travel posters

and bold flower arrangements.

MONKEY FOREST RD

Lamak (Map p188;

975754; Jl Dewi Sita; dishes

15,000-35,000Rp) The multi-level location here

facing both Jl Dewi Sita and the football field

makes this a breezy stop on a hot day. Try

one of the artful sandwiches, burgers, juices

or coffees.

Dragonfly (Map p188 ;

974668; Monkey Forest Rd; dishes

11am-midnight) Artful presenta-

tions from the eclectic menu set the mood at

this excellent eatery. The large kitchen is open

and each day there are specials of Indone-

sian food that are not found on your average

menu. Long wine list.

40,000-155,000Rp;

976324; Jl Jembawan 1;

dishes 12,000-35,000Rp) This breezy upper-floor

place offers a full range of vegetarian jamu

(health tonics), salads, tofu curries, savoury

crepes, pizza and gelato. It has a comfy loung-

North of the Centre

972973; Jl Dewi Sita; dishes

Bali and Lombok

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