Lombok - Bali and Lombok - page 134

chicken). Try to bag the low table facing the
garden and pond.
Other recommendations:
Mie Ayam Jakarta (Jl Pabean; dishes 5000-12,000Rp)
Scores for tasty, inexpensive Javanese food.
Kristal ( % 627564; Jl Pejanggik 22; dishes 6000-
20,000Rp) Head here for Chinese cuisine and seafood.

also for long-distance buses to Sumbawa, Bali
and Java ( p353 ).
The terminal is fairly chaotic, so be sure
to keep a level head to avoid the 'help' of
the commission-happy touts. Long-distance
buses leave from behind the main terminal
building, while bemo and smaller buses leave
from one of two car parks on either side.
Some distances and fares for buses and
bemo from Mandalika terminal:

every year (in November or December) in
honour of the god Batara, who is said to dwell
on Gunung Rinjani. There's also a large swim-
ming pool (2000Rp extra) in the grounds.
Narmada is 6km east of Bertais, and then
100m south of Lombok's main east-west
highway. Frequent bemo from Mandalika
run to Narmada market, which is directly
opposite the entrance to the gardens.
Pura Lingsar
This large temple compound (admission by donation;
h 7am-6pm) , built in 1714 by King Anak Agung
Ngurah, is the holiest in Lombok. It combines
the Bali Hindu and Wektu Telu (p316) religions
in one complex. Designed with two separate
sections and built on two different levels, the
Hindu temple (Pura Gaduh) in the northern
half is higher than the Wektu Telu temple in the
southern section. Pura Gaduh has four shrines:
one orientated to Gunung Rinjani (seat of the
gods on Lombok), one to Gunung Agung (seat
of the gods in Bali) and a double shrine repre-
senting the union between the two islands.
The Wektu Telu temple is noted for its
small enclosed pond devoted to Lord Vishnu,
and the holy eels which can be enticed from
their hiding places with hard-boiled eggs
(available at stalls outside). You will be ex-
pected to rent a sash and/or sarong (or bring
your own) to enter the temple, but not to enter
the outer buildings.
A huge ritual battle, Perang Topat, is held
here every year here in November or De-
cember (the exact date depends on the lunar
month). After a costumed parade, Hindus and
Wektu pelt each other with ketupat (sticky
rice in coconut leaves).
Pura Lingsar is 9km northeast of Manda-
lika. First take a bemo from the terminal to
Narmada, and another to Lingsar. Ask to be
dropped off near the entrance to the temple
complex, which is 300m down a well-marked
path from the main road.
Suranadi
Suranadi is a pleasant little village surrounded
by picturesque countryside. It has a temple,
a small pocket of forest and a swimming
pool, making it a popular spot for locals on
weekends.

AVOIDING OFFENCE
Most of Lombok is culturally conservative,
and immodest dress and public displays of
affection between couples can cause of-
fence. Both men and women should dress
appropriately away from Senggigi and the
Gilis. Nude or topless bathing anywhere is
very offensive.
Islamic law forbids drinking alcohol and,
although booze is widely available on Lom-
bok, public drunkenness is quite definitely
frowned upon. It's particularly offensive to
drink alcohol near a mosque. Ramadan is
a time to be particularly sensitive about
local cultural sensibilities - most locals fast
during daylight hours during this month, and
there are no parties on Gili Trawangan.

Shopping
For handicrafts try the many stores on Jl
Raya Senggigi, the road heading north from
Ampenan.
Lombok Handicraft Centre (Jl Hasanuddin; h 8am-
6pm) At Sayang Sayang (2km north of Cakra)
this place has a wide range of crafts from
across Lombok and eastern Indonesia.
Mataram Mall (Jl Selaparang; h 7am-7pm) This
multistorey shopping mall contains a super-
market, electrical goods and clothes stores as
well as food stalls.
Galeria Nao ( % 626835; Jl Raya Senggigi 234, Menint-
ing; h 8.30am-6pm) Beautifully finished contem-
porary wooden furniture and artefacts that
wouldn't look out of place in Wallpaper* .
Lombok Pottery Centre ( % 640351; Jl Sriwijaya 111)
Offers a vast range of Lombok pottery, and
prices are reasonably competitive.
Rinjani Handwoven ( % 633169; Jl Pejanggik 44;
h 8am-6pm Mon-Sat) You can see weavers in action
at this workshop and buy their handiwork.
Selamat Riady ( % 631196; www.lombokpottery.com;
Jl Tanun 10) Offers textiles, including ikat from
Lombok, Flores and Sumba, and other crafts.
Getting There & Away
AIR
See p350 for airlines serving Lombok and
details on the airport and departure tax. Note
that fares from Bali are often quite cheap -
under US$30.
Garuda Indonesia ( % 638259; www.garuda
-indonesia.com; Hotel Lombok Raya, Mataram) Jakarta,
Surabaya and Bali.
Lion Air ( % 629111, 692222; www.lionair.co.id;
Hotel Sahid Legi, Mataram) Surabaya.
Merpati Airlines ( % 621111; www.merpati.co.id; Jl
Pejanggik 69, Mataram) Flies to Bali and Sumbawa.
Silk Air ( % 628254; www.silkair.com; Hotel Lombok
Raya, Mataram) Serves Singapore direct.
Wings Air (see Lion Air, above)

Destination Distance Price (Rp) Duration

Labuhan Lombok 69km 15,000 2hr

Lembar 22km 7500 30min

Praya 27km 6000 30min

Kuta (via Praya 54km 6000

& Sengkol) (+6000) 90min

Pemenang
(for Bangsal) 30km 5000 40min

CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Most hotels can arrange car hire, but you'll
almost certainly find a much better deal in
Senggigi. If you'd rather someone else did
the driving, contact Ido Ado Dalmin ( % 0813 3956
2129) a reliable driver-guide who speaks fair
English. He charges around 350,000Rp per
day for a car and his services. For care hire,
try Trac Astra Rent-a-Car ( % 626363; www.trac.astra
.co.id; Jl Adi Sucipto 5, Rembiga Mataram; Kijang with driver
per 6hr 425,000Rp, self-drive per day 385,000Rp).

Kebon Roek terminal in Ampenan has the
bemo to Bertais (1500Rp) and services to
Senggigi (3000Rp).

TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
Perama ( % 635928; www.peramatour.com; Jl Pejanggik 66)
operates shuttle buses to popular destinations
in Lombok (including Bangsal, Senggigi and
Kuta) and to Bali.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Lombok's Selaparang airport is on the north
side of the city, 5km from Cakra. A taxi desk
sells prepaid tickets: 17,500Rp to anywhere
in Mataram; 44,000Rp to Senggigi; 98,000Rp
to Bangsal and Lembar; 145,000Rp to Kuta;
210,000Rp to Senaru. Alternatively, walk out of
the airport to Jl Adi Sucipto and take one of the
No 7 bemo that run frequently to Ampenan.

TA X I
For a metered taxi, call Lombok Taksi ( % 627000) .
AROUND MATARAM
East from Mataram there are some gorgeous
areas with villages, rice fields and temples,
reminiscent of some of the best landscapes
and scenery that Bali has to offer. You can
easily visit all the following places in half a
day if you have your own transport.
Taman Narmada
Apparently designed as a scaled down version
of the summit of Gunung Rinjani and its crater
lake, Taman Narmada (Narmada Park; admission 5000Rp;
h 7am-6pm) was built in 1805. Though the rec-
tangular main pool and manicured terraced
gardens hardly look like a volcanic cone, the
extensive grounds of the park are a pleasant

BEMO
Mataram is very spread out, so don't plan on
walking. Yellow bemo shuttle back and forth
between Kebon Roek terminal in Ampenan
and Mandalika terminal in Bertais (10km
away). Some make slight detours, but they
generally travel along the two main thorough-
fares. The bemo terminals are good places to
organise a charter trip. Outside the Cakranegara