Lombok - Bali and Lombok - page 135

holiest Hindu temples on Lombok. It's worth
a visit for its lovely gardens which have a
bubbling, icy cold natural spring and restored
baths with ornate Balinese carvings (plus the
obligatory holy eels).
Just opposite the village market, an en-
trance leads to Hutan Wisata Suranadi (admission
1000Rp; h 8am-5pm) , a small forest sanctuary
which is a shady and quiet area good for short
hikes and bird-watching. There's a Sumatran el-
ephant (rides through the forest 15/25min 40,000/60,000Rp)
here too.

sacrificed to give thanks for a good harvest.
The Desa Bersih festival (p337) also occurs here
at harvest time - houses and gardens are
cleaned, fences whitewashed, and roads and
paths repaired. Once part of a ritual to rid the
village of evil spirits, it's now held in honour
of the rice goddess Dewi Sri.
It's a 15-minute walk up to the temple top
from the entrance. Very little direct public
transport comes here - it's best visited with
your own wheels.
Banyumulek
This is one of the main pottery centres on Lom-
bok, specialising in decorated pots and pots
with a woven fibre covering, as well as more
traditional urns and water flasks. It's close to
the city - head south of Sweta on the main
road to Lembar, and after 6km take a turnoff
on the right to Banyumulek, a couple of kilo-
metres to the west.
LEMBAR
Lembar is Lombok's main port for liners
coming in from Bali and Pelni. Though the
harbour itself, with azure inlets ringed by
soaring green hills, has to be one of Indo-
nesia's most beautiful, there's no reason to
stay the night given the derth of facilities and
excellent transport connections with Mata-
ram and Senggigi. But if you do somehow
get stuck, or need a bite to eat, the clean and
very hospitable Losmen Tidar ( % 681444; Jl Raya
Pelabuhan; s/d with bathroom 40,000Rp, cottages 75,000Rp,
all incl breakfast) 1km north of the ferry port is
an excellent deal. It offers neat rooms and
cottages, all with cable TV and one with its
very own fish pond. Very hearty Indonesian
meals (8000Rp to 17,000Rp) are also served
by the family owners.
Plenty of bemo shuttle back and forth be-
tween Lembar and the Mandalika terminal
in Bertais (3500Rp), or you can catch one
at the market stop in Cakra. See p350 for
details on the ferries and boats between Bali
and Lembar, including the public ferries from
Padangbai ( p221 ).
SOUTHWESTERN PENINSULA
The corrugated, beach-blessed coastline and
tiny offshore islands west of Sekotong has

shaped inland hills form rich pastureland in
the rainy season; visit the area at this time
and you'll hear cow bells clanking. The road
which hugs the coast, passing white-sand cove
after cove, is narrow but paved until Selegang.
A track continues to the west past Bangko
Bangko to Tanjung Desert (Desert Point), one
of Asia's legendary surf breaks, but there's no
accommodation here, so you'll need to bring
camping gear.
Only a few of the beautiful offshore islands,
fringed with coconut palm-studded sandy
beaches and offering fine snorkelling, are
inhabited. Currently, Gili Nanggu and Gili
Gede have accommodation. The latter island
has some Bugis villages where locals make
a living from boat building, and also some
offshore pearl farms.
Sleeping & Eating
Places to stay and restaurants are slim on the
ground in this region, and some close in the
rainy season. Sundancer (www.sundancerresort.com) ,
a huge new hotel and resort complex, with a
PADI scuba diving centre is due to open in
late 2006 just west of Pandanan.

ISLANDS
Gili Nanggu Cottages ( % 623783; www.gilinangu
.com; cottages s/d 100,000/120,000Rp, s/d bungalows
225,000/275,000Rp; a ) A great choice, this island
resort has a beachfront location and rustic
two-storey lumbung (rice barn) cottages, plus
less attractive but comfortable air-con bun-
galows. Lifts from Lembar can be organised.
Meals are 16,000Rp to 38,000Rp.
Secret Island Resort ( % 661-3579; www.secretis
landresort.com; r 200,000Rp, bungalow 250,000Rp, two bed
villa 1,000,000Rp; a ) This new resort on Gili
Gede offers beautiful accommodation, all with
fine sea or mountain views and terraces. The
double-deck bar-restaurant rustles up great
seafood and barbecued meats. Check out the
hot tub - spa, plunge pool and swimming pool
are planned. Kayak, snorkel and dive trips can
be arranged here.
Getting There & Away
Bemo buzz between Lembar and Pelangan
(one hour, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes)
via Sekotong (25 minutes). West of Pelan-
gan, transport is less regular, but the route
is still served by infrequent bemo services
until Selegang.
To reach Gili Nanggu, a return charter on
a prahu (outrigger fishing boat) from Taun
costs 150,000Rp. Public boats connect Tem-
bowong with the islands of Gili Gede and
Gili Ringit (both 8000Rp one way), leaving
from Putri Doyong losmen, 2km north of
Pelangan. Alternatively, you can charter your
own boats here for about 60,000Rp one way
or arrange a day trip around the islands for
about 225,000Rp.
SENGGIGI
Superbly positioned along a stretch of sweep-
ing bays, Senggigi is Lombok's principal beach
resort. Accommodation here is generally ex-
cellent value for money, as luxury hotels have
slashed rates in an attempt to draw in tourists
following several tough years. Unless you visit
in peak season, expect quiet restaurants and
empty shopping malls, but plenty of attention
from the street hawkers.
Senggigi has fine sandy beaches, and as
the sun sinks, all eyes turn west to take in the
blood-red sunsets over Bali that can be en-

SLEEPING & EATING
Just above the temple, Losmen Jati ( % 6606437;
r 30,000Rp) is a friendly and well-kept place,
while the once-wonderful colonial atmos-
phere of the Suranadi Hotel ( % 636411; fax 635630;
r from 195,000Rp; s ) still has some faded charm,
as well as a pool and tennis courts.
Several smart restaurants are dotted along
the main road close to the temple and there
are plenty of cheap warung (food stalls) in the
neighbouring village of Surandi.
The temple is 6km northwest of Narmada
and served by frequent public bemo. Failing
that, charter one.
Sesaot & Around
Some 4km northeast of Suranadi is Sesaot, a
charming market town on the edge of a forest.
There are some gorgeous picnic spots and you
can swim in the river. The water is very cool
and is considered holy as it comes straight from
Gunung Rinjani. Regular transport connects
Narmada with Sesaot, and bites are available
at the warung along the main street.
Further east, Air Nyet is another pretty village
with more options for swimming and picnics.
Ask for directions to the unsigned turn-off
in the middle of Sesaot. The bridge and road
to Air Nyet are rough, but it's a lovely stroll
(about 3km) from Sesaot; otherwise charter
a vehicle from Sesaot or Narmada.
Gunung Pengsong
This Balinese hilltop temple (admission by dona-
tion; h 7am-6pm) , 9km south of Mataram, has
spectacular views across a green ocean of rice
fields towards distant volcanoes and the sea.
Japanese soldiers hid here towards the end

MAINLAND
Putri Doyang ( % 0812 375 2459; Jl Raya Pelangangi, Tem-
bowong; s/d 25,000/50,000Rp) Simple clean rooms
and hospitable owners make this losmen
(basic accommodation), 2km north of Pe-
langan, a budget option worth considering.
Sekotong Indah Beach Cottages ( % 6601921; r
without/with air-con 55,000/85,000Rp; a ) Offers basic
tiled, nearly clean rooms with bamboo furni-
ture that would benefit from a little more TLC.
However, the location opposite a slim sandy
beach 2km west of Taun is great. Meals are
5000 Rp to 20,000Rp.
Bola Bola Paradis ( % 623783; batuapi99@hotmail
.com; Jl Raya Bangko-Bangko; r 160,000-280,000Rp; a )
Just west of Pelangan, this attractive place set
on a fine stretch of sand has funky octagonal
bungalows, comfortable air-con rooms, and a
restaurant (mains 20,000Rp to 55,000Rp) and
chic lounge area.
Nirvana Roemah Air ( % 640107; www.floatingvilla
.com; Jl Raya Medang, Sekotong Barat; villas incl airport trans-
fers US$150-250 ; a ) Billing itself as a floating
island resort, this luxurious place, 2km west of