Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
North and Central Coasts
Ecuador's northwestern region will likely always be eclipsed by the Galápagos Islands and
Volcano Route as popular destinations in the country, leaving it all the more alluring and
unspoiled for travelers who would like to experience the 'hidden' Ecuador. The north and
central coasts alone harbor some of the country's best beaches curtained by Edenic coastal
rainforests or craggy deserts in some places. Rivers carry volcanic ice to the Pacific and
along their banks African slave descendants live in remote villages surrounded by jungle
life on the mainland and greater biodiversity than the Galápagos off its shores. Though suit-
able, 'paradise' would be too simple a word to describe this region.
Reaching northward from the middle Pacific coast to the Colombian border, Ecuador's
north and central coasts are dominated by two provinces, Manabí and Esmeraldas. Both
possess high-rise-lined resort beaches like Manta and Atacames and mellow fishing vil-
lages like Canoa and Mompiche where a handful of expats hope that no one blows the
whistle on their hideaways. Esmeraldas alone is known as the 'Green Province', with the
tallest mangroves on Earth and a plethora of vast ecological reserves, while Manabí quietly
soldiers on as the true producers of 'Panama hats'.
Even so, bad news always travels faster than good and most tourists in Ecuador are warned
against visiting the northwest, noting ugly cities and high crime rates, especially in Esmer-
aldas. And though a lot of the rumors are true, safe and enjoyable vacations on these coasts
are definitely possible. I would recommend limiting stays in big, polluted cities to basic
stopovers to take advantage of the relaxed villages that neighbor them, which are safer and
more pleasant.
If you don't plan on missing out on the northwest lowlands' hidden gems, there's a lot to
look forward to. While smoggy cities like the provincial capital of Esmeraldas are humid as
they come, the Humboldt Current and El Niño winds bring a concurrent breeze through
modest bay towns that dot the coast, creating the perfect climate. These winds along with
ocean swells also give rise to the tallest waves on the Ecuadorian coast (namely in
Mompiche) which have not gone unnoticed by surfers from around the globe. Foodies will
relish in the fresh high-quality seafood dishes influenced by age-old African, indigenous
and Ecuadorian heritages, and culture geeks in general will be blown away by the richness
of the history, art and music of the majority Afro-Ecuadorian community found here,
whose contributions to the national progress too often go unnoticed.
