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( 224 215 495; Palác Lucerna, Štěpánská 61; 10am-midnight; ; 3, 9, 14, 24) The
least touristy of Prague's grand cafes, the Lucerna is part of an art-nouveau shopping
arcade designed by the grandfather of ex-president Václav Havel. Filled with faux
marble, ornamental metalwork and glittering crystal lanterns ( lucerna is Czech for
lantern), this 1920s gem has arched windows overlooking David Černý's famous Kun
(Horse) sculpture hanging beneath the glass-domed atrium.
BRE
BREWER
WERY
NOVOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR
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(New Town Brewery; 224 232 448; www.npivovar.cz ; Vodičkova 20; 10am-11.30pm
Mon-Fri, 11.30am-11.30pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun; 3, 9, 14, 24) Like U Fleků, the 'New
Town Brewery' (established in 1993) has largely been taken over by coach-party tour
groups, but it's considerably cheaper (38Kč for 0.5L, available in both light and dark
varieties), and the food is not only edible but actually rather good. If you haven't
booked, though, you'll be lucky to get a table.
BRE
BREWER
WERY
U FLEKŮ
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( 224 934 019; www.ufleku.cz ; Křemencová 11; 10am-11pm; Karlovo Náměstí) A
festive warren of drinking and dining rooms, U Fleků is a Prague institution, though
usually clogged with tour groups high on oompah music and the tavern's home-
brewed, 13° black beer (59Kč for 0.4L), known as Flek. Purists grumble but go along
anyway because the beer is good, though tourist prices have nudged out many locals.
Beware the waiter asking if you want to try a Becherovka (Czech liqueur) - it's not
a great accompaniment to beer, and it'll add 80Kč to the bill.
CAFE
AFE
KAVÁRNA EVROPA
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( 224 228 117; Václavské náměstí 25; 9.30am-11pm; Můstek) The Grand Hotel Ev-
ropa sports the most atmospheric cafe on Wenceslas Square, a fading museum of
over-the-top art nouveau. Sadly, it has long since become a tourist trap, with second-
rate cakes and coffee and rip-off prices, but it's still worth a look inside just for the ar-
chitecture and decor.
NOVÉ MĚSTO
SIGHTS | EATING | DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE | SHOPPING
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