Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Laguna Guapamó
A short distance behind the church to the north, on the outskirts of town, the streets run down
to
Laguna Guapamó
, an artificial lake created by the Jesuits to provide water and fish for
the mission, where locals like to come swimming and fishing on sultry afternoons; note that
the lake is home to piranhas.
SAN JUANCITO
For those tired of the mission circuit's unsociably timed buses and lusting for a bit of an
adventure, the community tourism project at
San Juancito
is the perfect fix. Situated about
20km from San Ignacio, the forty family-strong community is rustic (no running water or
electricity) but provides a fascinating window into life in rural Santa Cruz and Chiquitano
culture. You can learn traditional
artesania
, see coffee growing and even help out in the
fields. There are also opportunities for horseriding, hiking and fishing. The basic rooms
(dorms Bs15/person) are comfortable and prices include three meals of wholesome home-
cooking. Take one of the Santa Cruz buses and ask to be dropped off at San Juancito (about
20min along the road), or go by taxi (about Bs40) or motorbike taxi (about Bs15). See
zorpia.com/sanjuancito
,
for more details.
San Miguel
Set amid scrubby forest broken by patches of cattle pasture,
SAN MIGUEL
is a sleepy col-
lection of whitewashed houses about 40km south of San Ignacio on the main road to San José
de Chiquitos. Its humble structures make the first sight of the splendid
Iglesia de San Miguel
even more astounding: set on a small rise overlooking the central plaza and dominating the
town, the restored church is perhaps the most beautiful of the mission churches. Founded in
1721 and built in the same barn-like style as most of the others, the church facade is beauti-
fully painted with Baroque floral designs, with pictures of St Peter and St Paul on either side
of the main door.
To get inside, enter the walled
cloister
to the right - part of the original mission compound
or Jesuit college, which is now used by the parish priest: go under the freestanding white
adobe bell tower and ask in the parish offices for someone to let you in - you are likely to
have to ask around for someone with a key. Inside, the soaring roof is supported by massive
tree trunks carved in spirals, while the walls are lined with metre-high wooden statues of an-
gels. The main
altarpiece
is smothered in gold leaf, with alcoves filled by statues of angels
and saints including (in the centre) the Archangel Michael, in a golden helmet and shield,
holding a three-pronged sword aloft as he tramples the devil underfoot.
