Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Star of India Cochabamba 170 02 2114409; map . Though the decrepit, grey exterior
suggests it might have closed down years ago, this is in fact an English-owned Indian res-
taurant, the first of its kind in La Paz. Amid a candlelit, wooden-beamed interior, draped with
authentic Indian textiles, and lulled by a world music soundtrack and friendly staff, you may
just pluck up the courage to attempt one of their fiendish vindaloos, though they also do the
usual chicken tikka masala , jalfrezi , rogan josh etc, and all at very reasonable prices (from
Bs45).Aveggielististoppedbyahearty saag paneer aloo (Bs35);makesureyou'veworked
up an appetite before attacking its Himalayan-sized mountain of fried cheese. There's even a
bonafide Indian breakfast, but what really makes this place special is the astoundingly com-
prehensive list of Twinings tea, by the cup or pot (Bs14). Takeaway and delivery also avail-
able. Daily Mon-Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 4-11pm.
Tierra Sana Tarija 213 02 2110115, 4cornerslapaz.com ; map . This new vegetarian res-
taurant is the latest joint effort between the various expats and Bolivians sprucing up Calle
Tarija. Spare a thought for Belgian chef Luc Cueppers, who nightly dashes between various
Tarija/Murillo kitchens yet can still rustle up food as salivatory as the Brazilian peanut soup
(Bs22). Other international options include a Cameroonian concoction of lentils, plantain and
peppers, all served in a bright, fresh, self-consciously modern interior. The music isn't bad
either, switching between 1960s pop, White Album Beatles and El Carratero -vintage Cuban
roots. Daily 9am-10pm.
Villaserena Av Ecuador 2582 02 2418151; map . The kitchen of this cultural complex -
also housing Café Concert Luna Llena , located in an impressively bohemian colonial conver-
sion in Sopocachi, is commandeered by Catalan chef Juan Pablo Villalobos, whose unique
take on new Andean-Spanish cuisine includes such fearless combinations as shrimp, lobster
andllamawithquinoa.ThemanalsorunscookerycoursesforBs700($100)/month. Mon-Fri
11am-3pm & 7-11pm, Sun noon-4pm.
EXPENSIVE
El Arriero Av 6 de Agosto 2535 02 2310440; map . Claiming “the best meat in the world”,
this Argentine steak house doesn't skimp on the calories, serving mammoth slabs of beef
along with the obligatory chorizo , morcilla , tripe, and kidney. On Sun afternoons, especially,
the sober wood-panelled walls and racks of Argentine wine set the scene for troupes of
well-heeled Sopocachi families. There's also a sister branch in Calacoto on C 18 and Av
Montenegro. Daily noon-3pm & 7-11pm.
Casa Nostra Av Ballivián 927, Zona Sur 02 2792417. Though the spartan interior and
sliding doors lend it a quasi-oriental feel, this stylish trattoria prepares some of the most
flavour-rich Italian cuisine in La Paz, more than justifying the trek from uptown. Mains - in-
cluding a fiery, well-oiled rigatoni all' amatriciana and a buttery-rich red pesto - are worth
every cent of their Bs53 price tag, while their Jugo de Cosa Nostra, a combination of fresh
strawberry, lemon and pineapple, is even more mouth-watering than it sounds. Service is im-
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