THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Bolivia - page 124

bys like ropa vieja (shredded beef, onion, wine and tomato) and the obligatory mojitos make
this the best lazy evening option on Sagárnaga by far. Mon-Sat noon-midnight.
MODERATE
Anjelo Colonial II AvMariscalSantaCruz1066 022124979; map . Araregringo-oriented
retreat from the ferocious traffic of the Prado, this is as convenient a place as any for that
candlelit dinner. Rustic bench seating and a horde of antiques - from old maps and gramo-
phones to gilt-framed portraits and a wonderful old cash till - make for second-hand atmo-
sphere in abundance. The food, alas, doesn't quite match the fittings but you get what you
pay for, with crêpes, omelettes and pasta dishes (though give the veggie lasagne a miss)
in the Bs20-40 range. There's also a branch on Linares 922-924, off Sagárnaga, more of
a Western saloon-style affair, and several smaller branches around town including a lovely
nook in the brick-vaulted cellars of the Museo Nacional De Arte, a great breakfast choice if
you're lodged nearby. Daily 8am-11pm.
La Coca R. Gutiérrez 482 02 2410892; map . You won't find a more enthusiastic chef/
restaurateur/hostthanthewell-travelled MirkoVargas,andthisnewlyopened,pleasantly rus-
tic bistro is his shrine to the wonders of pan-Andean, and specifically coca-inspired, cuisine:
pizzas with coca flour, quinoa hamburgers, coca-infused crab, mouthwatering red quinoa
soup and even coca ice cream. While mains come in around Bs50, the almuerzo is outstand-
ing value at only Bs22; get it while the price lasts. Takeaway planned. Daily 11am-midnight.
La Cueva Tarija,opposite TierraSana 022314523, 4cornerslapaz.com ; map . Colourful,
authentic-feeling Mexican with a sense of humour (check out the spicy Spiderman shrine),
super-friendly management and a cosy orange glow. There's no menu as such; specials (look
out for the pumpkin soup) are scrawled, Mexican-style, both on the board outside, and on an-
other by the pint-sized bar, where it's easiest to place your order. Mon-Sat 11am-midnight,
Sun 4pm-midnight; the bar stays open later.
La Guinguette Av 20 de Octubre and 339 Fernando Guachalla 399 02 2421390; map .
Formerly Café Montmartre and Le Bistrot , this très arty bistro next door to the Alliance
Francaise serves delectable French food and drink in an animated, candle-lit atmosphere,
with a well-dressed clientele lapping up various permutations of duck and a heavenly French
onion soup. Occasional live gypsy jazz. Mon-Fri noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight, Sat 1-4pm &
7pm-midnight (food served till 10.30pm max).
Layq'a On the first floor above the corner of Linares and Sagárnaga 02 2460903; map .
Convenient, if pricey and very touristy, place to try traditional Altiplano dishes, including
huge llama steaks (Bs78) and crema de chuño - a delicious soup made from freeze-dried
potatoes. The popular set almuerzo includes a salad bar, and don't miss the delectable peach,
strawberry, papaya, yoghurt and vanilla milkshake. Daily 11am-3pm & 6.30-10pm.