Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NORTHEAST PANAMÁ PROVINCE
Heading toward the Darién and the Comarca de Kuna Yala, there are some excellent at-
tractions still within an easy day trip from Panama City. Lago Bayano has boating, bird-
watching and caving, while Narganá and its surrounding area has great rainforest trails.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Área Silvestre de Narganá
Just before you reach the town of El Llano on the road to the Darién, you'll see the
turnoff for Cartí, a small town inside the Área Silvestre de Narganá (admission US$6)
wildlife reserve. This reserve was created by the Kuna, primarily to try to keep squatters
from settling on their land. However, it consists of 960 sq km of species-rich primary
forest, a perfect choice for conservation.
The road into the reserve is pretty rough, and you'll need a 4WD with a strong engine
and plenty of clearance. However, it's worth the trip in, especially if you're a bird-watch-
er - this is the best place in Panama to spot the speckled antshrike, the black-headed ant
thrush and the black-crowned antpitta.
Sleeping
Burbayar Lodge LODGE $$$
$$$
( 6400-8972; www.burbayar.com ; per person incl 3 meals & tours first night US$190, then
US$155; ) Among Panama's best jungle retreats, this ecologically minded, low-im-
pact lodge is located in an enchanted hillside setting. The love child of a Spanish traveler
who came to Panama and stayed, it's affectionately crafted from reused wood and re-
cycled materials, with terraced lookouts and a quirky open-air chapel. Lodging is in
simple cabins with mountain views and river stone showers.
All guests get a guide to explore options like visiting Emberá communities, hiking or
bird-watching. Best of all, the staff are contagiously enthusiastic. On the Mesoamerican
Biological Corridor, the lodge sits surrounded by primary and secondary forest with wa-
terfalls, caverns and trails. One of the last great frog reserves, the area boasts more than
30 species. Rare birds include the speckled antshrike, and species easy to spot include
toucans, as well as howler monkeys, Geoffrey's tamarin, white-faced tamarin monkeys
and sloths. Also around but harder to spot are jaguars, pumas, ocelots, margays and ta-
pirs.
 
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