Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Playa El Palmar
Ten kilometers west of the Playa Coronado is the turnoff for this lovely white-sand
beach, which is located by the village of San Carlos. Although much less developed than
Coronado, El Palmar is still popular with weekending families from the capital, but the
atmosphere is more low-key.
The most stylish digs is Manglar Lodge ( 345-4014, 240-8970; d US$110; ) , pro-
fessionally run by surfer Ivan. Outdoor showers help you rinse off the sand, there are
pleasant manicured grounds and ample rooms with contemporary styles. It's at the end of
the road at the mouth of the river.
The wave-front Palmar Surf Camp ( 240-8004; campsite per person US$10, d/q/ste
US$70/90/130; ) aims at surfers or those who want to learn the ropes. Motel-style
rooms feature cool murals, cable TV and free coffee. Check on midweek discounts. Surf
lessons are US$35 for three hours; you can also rent kayaks. It's a US$2 taxi from the In-
teramericana.
Another option for lessons, Panama Surf School ( 6673-0820;
www.panamasurfschool.com ; Calle 4ta Sur s/n) is run by a well-known local surfer. Some
English is spoken and lessons run US$40 for two hours, including board. There may be
dorm rooms available next door.
At the turnoff for El Palmar, Carlitos (Interamericana; pizzas US$4-7) cooks Argentine-
style empanadas and thin-crust pizzas.
Río Mar
Just five minutes up the road from Playa El Palmar, Río Mar is a small rocky inlet where
a few new highrises cast a shadow. A right turn on the road in, Río Mar Surf Camp (
345-4010; www.riomarsurf.com ; d/q US$50/70; ) offers bargain-rate rooms and surf
lessons. Rooms are pleasant and sit on immaculate green grounds with a pea-sized pool.
There is no kitchen but visiting surfers get refrigerator and grill access for feeding pur-
poses. Lessons are US$20 per hour and boards rent for US$15 to US$35 per day. Call
ahead to reserve (weekends are busier), since it seems the management tucks out for the
waves now and then, leaving a grumpy caretaker.
 
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