Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
which he established in 1560. While some regard him as a prototypical Puritan, he
actually proposed progressive changes in the ruling of the church and in education.
But Knox lived at a time of great religious and political upheaval; he spent 2 years as
a galley slave and later lived in exile in Geneva. Upon his return, he became minister
of St. Giles and worked to ensure the Reformation's success in Scotland.
Even if you're not overly interested in the firebrand reformer (who may have never
lived here anyway), this late-15th-century house still merits a visit. Before Knox
allegedly moved in, it was the home of James Mosman, goldsmith to the Catholic
Mary, Queen of Scots (no friend of Knox). The house is now integrated into the
completely modernized
Scottish Storytelling Centre.
43-45 High St.
&
0131/556-9579.
www.scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk. Admission £4 adults, £3.50
seniors, £1 children 7-15. MC, V. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm (also Sun noon-6pm July-Aug). Bus: 35 or 36.
The People's Story
One of the most handsome buildings along the Royal
Mile is the Canongate Tolbooth. Built in 1591, it was once the courthouse, prison,
and center of municipal affairs for the burgh of Canongate. It now contains this
rather pedestrian museum, which celebrates the social history of the inhabitants of
Edinburgh from the late 18th century to the present, with lots of display cases and
dressed-up mannequins. Still, it offers a chance to get inside the old tolbooth.
163 Canongate.
&
0131/529-4057.
www.cac.org.uk. Free admission. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm (also Sun
noon-5pm in Aug). Bus: 35 or 36.
Museum of Edinburgh
Across from the Canongate Kirk and housed in part of
historic Huntly House is the Museum of Edinburgh, another free museum run by
the city. It, too, concentrates on the capital's history with a set of rooms on different
levels featuring reproductions and original items to represent the city and its tradi-
tional industries, whether glassmaking or cabinetry. It even has Greyfriars Bobby's
collar and feeding bowl.
142 Canongate.
&
0131/529-4143.
www.cac.org.uk. Free admission. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm (also Sun
noon-5pm in Aug). Bus: 35 or 36.
Scottish Parliament Building
After much controversy over its cost—the
better part of £500 million and delays in its construction, the new Scottish Parlia-
ment opened in the fall of 2004. Designed by the late Barcelona-based architect
Enric Miralles, it is a remarkable piece of modern design—to many worth the
8
Canongate Kirkyard & Dunbar's Close
Take a few minutes to get off the well-
trodden Royal Mile. Wander about the
peaceful graveyard that surrounds the
Canongate Church and go into the
neighboring walled garden of Dunbar's
Close. The kirkyard has views back
toward Calton Hill as well as the graves
of some notable people, such as David
Rizzio confidant to Mary, Queen of
Scots (p. 12), ground-breaking eco-
nomic philosopher Adam Smith, and
18th-century poet Robert Fergusson,
whose headstone was paid for by his
more famous admirer, Robert Burns. If
you use your imagination, a stop here
might evoke the past in a way that
museums, audio loops, videos, and tour
guides can't do half as well.
