Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
For Fans of Mr. Hyde
Not far from Gladstone's Land is
Bro-
die's Close,
a stone-floored alley off
the Lawnmarket. It was named after the
well-respected cabinet-making father
of the notorious William Brodie, who
was a respectable councilor and dea-
con of trades by day—but a notorious
thief and ne'er-do-well by night. Bro-
die's apparent split personality (actu-
ally he was simply calculating and
devious) was possibly part of the inspi-
ration for Robert Louis Stevenson's
The
Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
Brodie was finally caught and hanged
in 1788. In a final irony, the mechanism
used in the hangman's scaffold was
perfected by none other than Brodie
himself—and he tried to defy its action
by secretly wearing a steel collar under
his shirt. It didn't work. Across the
street from Brodie's Close is one of the
more famous pubs along the Royal
Mile:
Deacon Brodie's Tavern,
435
Lawnmarket (
&
0131/225-6531
).
8
either side, date back centuries. Led by guides dressed up as characters from the
past, you can revisit the turbulent and plague-ridden days of the 17th century. Dim
lighting and an audio track are intended to add to the experience. But of course in
their day, these lanes weren't covered by a massive building. Still, this is a popular
attraction so booking in advance is recommended.
2 Warriston's Close, High St.
&
0870/243-0160.
www.realmarykingsclose.com. Admission £11 adults,
£10 seniors, £6 children 5-15. Advance reservations requested. Apr-July and Sept-Oct daily 10am-9pm;
Aug 9am-9pm; Nov-Mar Sun-Thur 10am-5pm and Fri-Sat 10am-9pm. Closed Christmas Day. Bus: 23,
27, 28, 35, 41, or 42.
Brass Rubbing Centre
Down Chalmers Close from the High Street (or pass
through the breezeway of the Jury's Hotel from Jeffrey St.) is the Brass Rubbing
Centre, located in the remnants of the Holy Trinity church, founded in the 1460s. At
this lesser-known and calm attraction, visitors make a wax rubbing (impression) from
all sorts of designs, whether prehistoric Pictish motifs or Celtic crosses. Costs start
from about £2 for simple rubbings that might take an hour or less to execute, though
the cost is much more for elaborate brass plates that may occupy an entire day.
Chalmers Close.
&
0131/556-4364.
www.cac.org.uk. Free admission. Apr-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-5pm
(also Sun noon-5pm in Aug); closed Oct-Mar. Bus: 36.
Museum of Childhood
Allegedly the world's first museum devoted solely to
the history of childhood, this popular and free museum is just past the intersection
of High and Blackfriars streets. The contents of its four floors range from antique
toys to games to exhibits on health, education, and costumes, plus video presenta-
tions and an activity area. Not surprisingly, this is often the noisiest museum in
town. There is a good shop for toys and games.
42 High St.
&
0131/529-4142.
www.cac.org.uk. Free admission. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm.
Bus: 35.
John Knox House
This is arguably the most picturesque dwelling house in
Edinburgh's Old Town. It's characteristic of the “lands” that used to flank the Royal
Mile, and the interior is noteworthy for the painted ceiling. John Knox is acknowl-
edged as the father of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland, the Protestant tenets of
