Istanbul’s Top Sights - Istanbul - page 247

Some meyhanes rely on their rakı -soaked guests to entertain fellow diners with jokes and conver-
sation, but others provide live music. Modern meyhanes such as Demeti and Jash (see opposite) in
Cihangir sometimes host folk singers or accordion players, but the traditional meyhane features a
small group of musicians who move from table to table playing fasıl music, emotion-charged Turk-
ish folk or pop songs played on traditional instruments. Restaurants such as Feraye and Kallavi in
Beyoğlu are known throughout the city for their food-and- fasıl combo, and are favourites with large
groups, who pay a set charge of between 70 and 100 to enjoy a generous set menu with either
limited or unlimited choices from the bar (limited will be rakı, beer or soft drinks; unlimited means
that you could have all or any of these plus local spirits or wine). Guests sing along with the musi-
cians, get up and dance between courses and have a boisterous and boozy time - it's hugely enjoy-
able to watch and even better if you join in.

Musicians at these places rely on tips to make their living, so if you visit a meyhane be sure to tip
them ( 10 per person is about right). And when booking, be sure to opt for a Friday or Saturday
night when the party vibe is most pronounced.

Çukurcuma & Cihangir

JOURNEY $$
OFFLINE MAP

| INTERNATIONAL, CAFE

( www.journeycihangir.com ; Akarsu Yokuşu 21a, Cihangir; soups 7-9, sandwiches 14-19, mains
15-39; 9am-2am; ; Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim) This bohemian lounge cafe loc-
ated in the expat enclave of Cihangir serves a great range of Mediterranean comfort foods,
including sandwiches, soups, pizzas and pastas. Most of the dishes use organic produce
and there's a decent array of vegetarian options. The crowd is 30-something, the music al-
ternative and the ambience laid-back. Great stuff.

JASH $$
OFFLINE MAP

| ANATOLIAN

( 212-244 3042; www.jashistanbul.com ; Cihangir Caddesi 9, Cihangir; mezes 8-20, mains 20-42;
lunch & dinner; Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim) Armenian specialities such as topik (a
cold meze made with chickpeas, pistachios, onion, flour, currants, cumin and salt) make
an appearance on the menu of this bijou meyhane in trendy Cihangir. Come on the week-