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tiful, undeveloped stretch and you can cool off in swimming holes along the way. The
two-hour hike passes through forest, an abandoned farm and around a steep-walled estu-
ary before arriving at DOC's Lane Cove Hut ( 09-407 0300; www.doc.govt.nz ; sole occu-
pancy $164) , which has 16 beds, plus composting toilets. Bring everything else and re-
serve well ahead; it's usually booked out by Kiwi families over summer.
Duke's Nose Track (1ΒΌ hours return) starts behind the cottage and leads up Kairara
Rocks; look for the Duke of Wellington's aquiline profile in the rock face. You'll need to
haul yourself up a chain for the last 10m but the views are worth it. If you don't fancy
walking back - or if you don't fancy walking at all - Bushmansfriend ( 09-405 1844;
www.bushmansfriend.co.nz ) arranges water taxis from Lane Cove ($20) and one-hour boat
tours ($45).
On the other side of the harbour's north head is Taupo Bay , a surf beach that attracts a
loyal Kiwi contingent in summer. On easterly swells, there are quality righthanders to
surf at the southern end of the bay, by the rivermouth. It's reached by an 11km sealed
road signposted from SH10.
Sleeping & Eating
Kahoe Farms Hostel HOSTEL $
( 09-405 1804; www.kahoefarms.co.nz ; dm $30, r $76-96) On SH10, 10km north of the
turn-off to Whangaroa, this hostel has a deservedly great reputation - for its comfortable
accommodation, for its bucolic setting, for its home-cooked Italian food, but mostly for
its welcoming owners. The backpackers cottage is great, but slightly up the hill there's an
even more impressive villa with excellent-value en suite rooms.
Sunseeker Lodge HOSTEL $
( 09-405 0496; www.sunseekerlodge.co.nz ; Old Hospital Rd; dm/s/d/tr $25/50/66/90, units
$120-150; ) Up the hill in Whangaroa, this friendly lodge has a spa with a jaw-drop-
ping view, hires out kayaks and motor boats, and will pick you up from Kaeo on SH10.
Marlin PUB $$$
(Whangaroa Rd; mains $15-20; lunch & dinner) A friendly local pub with good honest tuck-
er served from the attached cafe.
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