Bay of Islands & Northland - New Zealand - page 201

Matauri Bay is a long, sandy surf beach, 18km off SH10, with the 17 Cavalli Islands
scattered offshore. Matauri Bay Holiday Park ( 09-405 0525;
www.matauribayholidaypark.co.nz ; sites from $20, units $130-140) takes up the north end of the
beach and has a shop selling groceries, booze and petrol. On top of the headland above
the park is a monument to the Rainbow Warrior; the Greenpeace ship's underwater rest-
ing place among the Cavalli Islands is a popular dive site.
DOC maintains a 12-person hut ( 09-407 0300; www.doc.govt.nz ; adult/child $15/10) on
Motukawanui Island, but you'll need a boat or kayak to reach it and you'll need to book
ahead. Only water, mattresses and a composting toilet are provided; bring everything
else.
Back on the main road, the route heads west, passing through pleasant Te Ngaere vil-
lage and a succession of little bays before the turn-off to Tauranga Bay, a smaller beach
where the sand is a peachy pink colour. Tauranga Bay Holiday Park ( 09-405 0436;
www.taurangabay.co.nz ; sites from $20, cabins $97-170; ) has campsites and log cabins on
the beachfront, but it lacks trees and bears the brunt of the weather. A minimum $59
charge per night for campsites and a seven-night minimum stay applies in January.
Down a private road leading from Tauranga Bay, Northland Sea Kayaking (
09-405 0381; www.northlandseakayaking.co.nz ; half-/full-day tours $75/95) leads kayak explora-
tions of this magical coastline of coves, sea caves and islands. Accommodation is avail-
able in conjunction with tours for $25 extra per person.
There's no public transport to these parts or to neighbouring Whangaroa.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Whangaroa Harbour
Just around the headland from Tauranga Bay is the narrow entrance to Whangaroa Har-
bour. The small fishing village of Whangaroa is 6km from SH10 and calls itself the
'Marlin Capital of NZ'.
There are plenty of charter boats for game-fishing (December to April); prices start at
around $1200 a day. If you're planning to hook a monster, insist on it being released once
caught - striped marlin and swordfish are among NZ's least-sustainable fishing options.
An excellent 20-minute hike starts from the car park at the end of Old Hospital Rd and
goes up St Paul's Rock (213m), which dominates the village. At the top you have to use
a wire cable to pull yourself up, but the views make it worth the effort.
The Wairakau Stream Track , heading north to Pekapeka Bay, begins near the church
hall on Campbell Rd in Totara North on the other side of the bay. It's an extremely beau-