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orientated 'cutesy' (with a double sofa bed and six bunks), to more comfortable rooms
which can be rented individually or as a three-room apartment.
MAORI NZ: NORTHLAND
Known to Maori as Te Tai Tokerau, this region has a long and proud Maori history
and today has one of the country's highest percentages of Maori people. Along
with East Cape, it's a place where you might hear Maori being spoken. In mytho-
logy the region is known as the tail of the fish of Maui.
Maori sites of particular significance include Cape Reinga, the Waitangi Treaty
Grounds, Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve and, in the Waipoua Forest, Tane
Mahuta.
Maori cultural experiences are offered by many local operators, including Foot-
prints Waipoua, Sandtrails Hokianga, Motuti Marae, Ahikaa Adventures, Sand Sa-
faris, Terenga Paraoa, Native Nature Tours, Taiamai Tours, Rewa's Village and Cul-
ture North. Many businesses catering to travellers are owned or run by Maori indi-
viduals or hapu(subtribal) groups. Tai Tokerau Tourism ( www.taitokerau.co.nz ) lists
many of them on its website.
Eating
Cafe Deli CAFE $
(29 The Centre; mains $10-22; 9am-4pm) Enticing salads, pasta, muffins and organic,
fairtrade coffee are served at this attractive little cafe on Waipu's main drag.
Pizza Barn ITALIAN $$$
(2 Cove Rd; mains $19-30; 11.30am-late Wed-Sun Apr-Nov, daily Dec-Mar) Popular platters,
light fare and great pizzas ($12 to 26) go well with cold beer when this cool place
morphs into a bar.
Two Fish Cafe CAFE $$$
( www.twofishcafe.co.nz ; 910 Cove Rd; mains $18-30; 9am-8pm Thu-Sun Apr-Jun & Aug-Dec,
9am-late daily Jan-Mar, closed Jul) Grab a spot on the deck of this heritage cottage near
Waipu Cove and devour excellent home baking, good pizzas and quite possibly North-
land's best gourmet fish burger.
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