EATING IN LONDON - London 2015 - page 662

Authentic Chinese Food in and near Chinatown
(See “Central London Eateries” map, here .)
The main drag of Chinatown (Gerrard Street, with the ornamental archways) is lined with
touristy, interchangeable Chinese joints—but these places seem to have an edge.
Y Ming Chinese Restaurant —across Shaftesbury Avenue from the ornate gates,
clatter, and dim sum of Chinatown—has dressy European decor, serious but helpful ser-
vice, and authentic Northern Chinese cooking. London's food critics consider this well
worth the short walk from the heart of Chinatown for food that's a notch above (good £ 12
meal deal offered 12:00-18:00, £ 8-12 plates, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:45, closed Sun, tur-
quoise corner shop at 35-36 Greek Street, tel. [phone]).
Jen Café, across the little square called Newport Place, is a humble Chinese corner
eatery much loved for its homemade dumplings. It's just stools and simple seating,
with fast service, a fun, inexpensive menu, and a devoted following ( £ 6-8 plates, daily
10:30-20:30, until 21:30 Thu-Sun, cash only, 4 Newport Place, tel. [phone]).
Wong Kei Chinese restaurant, at the Wardour Street (west) end of the Chinatown
drag, offers a bewildering variety of dishes served by notoriously brusque waiters in a
setting that feels like a hospital cafeteria. Londoners put up with the abuse to enjoy one
of the satisfying BBQ rice dishes or hot pots. Individuals and couples are usually seated
at communal tables, while larger parties are briskly shuffled up or down stairs ( £ 7-12
main dishes, £ 10-15 fixed-price meals, cash only, Mon-Sat 11:30-23:30, Sun 11:30-22:30,
41-43 Wardour Street, tel. [phone]).
Sedate and Upscale Options on Lexington Street, in the Heart of Soho
(See “Central London Eateries” map, here .)
Andrew Edmunds Restaurant is a tiny, candlelit space where you'll want to hide your
camera and guidebook and not act like a tourist. This little place—with a jealous and
loyal clientele—is the closest I've found to Parisian quality in a cozy restaurant in Lon-
don. The extensive wine list, modern European cooking, and creative seasonal menu are
worth the splurge ( £ 5-8 starters, £ 12-20 main dishes, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 & 17:30-22:45,
Sun 13:00-16:00 & 18:00-22:30, these are last-order times, come early or call ahead,
request ground floor rather than basement, 46 Lexington Street, tel. [phone],
www.andrewedmunds.com ) .
Mildred's Vegetarian Restaurant, across from Andrew Edmunds, has an enjoyable
menu and a pleasant interior filled with happy eaters ( £ 8-11 meals, Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00,
closed Sun, vegan options, 45 Lexington Street, tel. [phone],
www.mildreds.co.uk ) .