EATING IN LONDON - London 2015 - page 661

Bocca di Lupo, a pricey and popular splurge, serves small portions of classic regional
Italian food. Dressy and a bit snooty, it's a place where you're glad you made a reserva-
tion. The counter seating, on cushy stools with a view into the open kitchen, is particu-
larly memorable (Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 17:30-23:00, Sun 12:30-15:30 & 17:30-21:30,
12 Archer Street, tel. [phone], www.boccadilupo.com ) .
Gelupo, Bocca di Lupo's sister gelateria across the street, has a wide array of ever-
changing but always creative and delicious dessert favorites—ranging from popular stand-
bys like the incredibly rich chocolate sorbet to fresh-mint stracciatella to hay (yes, hay).
A £ 3 sampler cup or cone gets you two flavors (and little taster spoons are generously
offered to help you choose). Everything is homemade, and the white subway-tile interior
feels clean and bright. They also have espresso drinks and—at lunchtime— £ 5-6 deli sand-
wiches (daily 12:00 until late, 7 Archer Street, tel. [phone]).
Yalla Yalla is a hole-in-the-wall serving up high-quality Beirut street food—hummus,
baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, and shawarmas . Stylish as you'd expect for Soho, it's tucked
down a seedy alley across from a sex shop. Eat in the cramped and cozy interior or
at one of the few outdoor tables, or get your food to go ( £ 3-4 sandwiches, £ 4-6 meze,
£8 mezes platter available until 17:00, £ 10-15 bigger dishes, Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun
10:00-22:00, 1 Green's Court—just north of Brewer Street, tel. [phone]).
Ducksoup, a short block over from Wardour Street, is an upscale-feeling yet cool
and relaxed little bar, with a small but thoughtful menu of well-executed international and
modern British dishes ( £ 7 small plates, £ 14 big plates—sharing several items can add up).
The menu is handwritten, the music is on vinyl, and the rough woodwork and cramped-
but-convivial atmosphere give it the feeling of a well-loved wine bar. While a bit over-
priced, the atmosphere is memorable (Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, food served until 22:30, Sun
13:00-17:00, 41 Dean Street, tel. [phone]).
And for Dessert: In addition to the outstanding gelato at Gelupo and the treats at
Princi (both described earlier), several other places along Wardour Street boast window
displays that tickle the sweet tooth. In just a couple of blocks, you'll see pastry shops, a
crêperie , and a Hummingbird cupcake shop.
Soho Chain Restaurants: Some of Britain's most popular chain restaurants started
out here in Soho, but in this fast-evolving neighborhood, they're now a little like stale
sushi. While I wouldn't waste a Soho meal on one of these places, they're a convenient
fallback: Byron (particularly appealing industrial-mod branch at 97-99 Wardour Street),
Busaba Eathai (106 Wardour Street), Thai Square (27-28 St. Anne's Court, plus one
near Trafalgar Square at 21-24 Cockspur Street), Wagamama (10A Lexington Street),
Masala Zone (9 Marshall Street), Côte (124-126 Wardour Street), and Nando's (10 Frith
Street). For descriptions, see here .