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realised I would have to weigh my words more carefully next time. Not for noth-
ing is it said that a good Arab gives his guest food and a roof over his head for
three days before asking him what his business is.
We arrived at Bou Hedma National Park in late afternoon to be greeted by
yet another welcoming committee. More hands were shaken, cheeks kissed and
fresh cups of Arabic coffee served. Feelings of warmth and appreciation min-
gled with my innate Swedish impatience. We were already behind on our time-
table and had spent an entire day in the field without my fingers having so much
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