Our Indispensable Soil - Soil: Reflections on the Basis of our Existence - page 9

All forms of cultivation are negative from a soil structure perspective, but some
are more benign than others. The best approach is to refrain from ploughing and
instead cover the soil with organic matter. One can also keep the land permanently
vegetated by growing crops between rows of trees or by sowing new crops in
patches among others approaching their harvest date. All the same, it is sometimes
necessary to till the earth so seeds can germinate and grow. Also, unploughed land
is a haven for weeds, which often leads to herbicide use, and disease-bearing fungi
that thrive on crop residues.
In arid climates, for instance near the Sahara, it is especially important to pre-
serve whatever natural vegetation exists there. Plants tend to be scattered in these
conditions and the soil between them is vulnerable to wind erosion. When Hafedh
and I journeyed south to Bou Hedma National Park, we saw how the remains of
the former savannah woodland provided a sanctuary for wild ostriches and gazelles.
Reforestation measures have run into difficulties here because tree seeds often suc-
cumb to attack from parasites, while saplings often die of dehydration if drought
prevents their root systems from developing sufficiently in their first year. En route
to the park, we had to stop to get a permit from the local authorities. After telling
the smartly dressed officials about our project we found ourselves shaking numerous
pairs of hands before sinking into a comfortable armchair outside the senior offi-
cial's padded door. Arabic coffee was served and pleasantries exchanged in Arabic
and French. I managed to understand a handful of words like suédoise and champi-
gnon but as the hours passed my restlessness increased, along with my frustration
at not being able to start work on the project. Eventually it was time for lunch, for
which we all decamped to a nearby market. Here my companions bartered hard in
finest Arabic style before purchasing the freshest and most tender lamb for delivery
to a nearby restaurant—all in honour of their Swedish guest. The chef, apparently
unperturbed that his own meat had been deemed not good enough, rekindled the grill
and got to work. Plates of harissa appeared and we took it in turns to dip our bread in
the hot chilli sauce, easing the spiciness by adding olive oil, according to taste. The
lamb arrived on a large platter and we tucked in heartily as the bones, olive stones
and breadcrumbs piled up around us. The meal ended with a glass of green mint
tea garnished with pine nuts. When it was time to pay the bill I began rummaging
for my wallet only to meet a sharp stare from Hafedh. No self-respecting Arab host
would ever consider allowing a guest to pay his own way.
Our journey continued through southern Tunisia, the arid landscape punctuated
now and then by oases and their dark-green palms and lush vegetable beds. On my
mention of the sweet, sticky dates we eat in Sweden at Christmas, Hafedh began
talking to the driver and put on his seat belt. We accelerated suddenly, the driver
leaning on his horn to tell other cars to give way. A few minutes later we screeched
to a halt beside a small truck laden with fresh dates. Our driver hooted and Hafedh
motioned to the fruit seller to drive onto the verge. To my ears it sounded like an
argument as Hafedh haggled with the seller over the price of a bag of dates while
lorries thundered past on the highway. The seller grew increasingly irritated, reluc-
tant to sell the dates, which he apparently did not own. In the end, Hafedh had to
settle for breaking off a few dates to give his guest a taste. My curiosity stilled, I