Darwin to Uluru - Central Australia: Adelaide to Darwin - page 391

er River where freshwater meets saltwater. It's passable only in the Dry. Keen fisherfolk
stop here, with accommodation, fuel and supplies available at the Roper Bar Store (
08-8975 4636; www.roperbar.com.au ; unpowered site $20, s/d $95/115; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) .
Roper Bar is an access point to Borroloola. Head south along the rough-going Nathan
River Rd through Limmen National Park ( www.nt.gov.au/nreta/parks/find/limmen.html ) −
high-clearance with two spare tyres is required - and into southeastern Arnhem Land.
Continuing east along the highway for 45km leads to the Aboriginal community of
Ngukurr, home to about 1000 people from nine different language groups and cultures.
This cultural diversity informs the unique works on show and available to buy from the
Ngukurr Arts Centre ( www.ngukurrarts.com.au ;

9am-2pm Mon-Fri) ; no permit is required

to visit the centre.

Carpentaria & Tablelands Highways

Just south of Daly Waters, the sealed Carpentaria Hwy (Hwy 1) heads 378km east to
Borroloola, near the Gulf of Carpentaria, and one of the NT's top barramundi fishing
spots. After 267km the Carpentaria Hwy meets the sealed Tablelands Hwy at Cape
Crawford. At this intersection is the famous Heartbreak Hotel ( 08-8975 9928; un-
powered/powered sites $16/26, s/d $70/80; ) . Pitch the tent on the shaded grassy lawn
and park yourself on the wide verandah with a cold beer. Breakfast, lunch and dinner
(meals $15 to $30) are available.
Cape Crawford Tourism ( 0400 156 685; www.capecrawfordtourism.com.au ) runs heli-
copter rides (from $100) to see the otherwise inaccessible Lost City sandstone forma-
tions.
From here it's a desolate 374km south across the Barkly Tableland to the Barkly Hwy
(Rte 66) and the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse ( 08-8964 4549;
www.barklyhomestead.com.au ; unpowered/powered sites $20/28, cabins & motel d $140; ) ,
a surprisingly upbeat roadhouse. From here it's 210km west to Tennant Creek and 252km
east to the Queensland border.

Borroloola
POP 927
On the McArthur River close to the bountiful waters of the Gulf, Borroloola is big news
for fishing fans, but unless you're keen on baiting a hook (the barramundi season peaks
from February to April) or driving the remote (preferably 4WD) Savannah Way to
Queensland, it's a long way to go for not much reward.