Adelaide & South Australia - Central Australia: Adelaide to Darwin - page 269

In the early 1980s, the previously nonexistent town of Leigh Creek (population 700) was
built by the state government: blooming out of the desert, it's an odd, Canberra-like oasis
of leafy landscaping and cul-de-sacs. It's a coal-mining town, supplying the Port Augusta
power stations. The Leigh Creek Visitor Information Centre ( 08-8675 2315;

www.loccleighcreek.com.au ; Shop 2, Black Oak Dr, Leigh Creek; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,

8.30am-2pm Sat) is at Liz's Open Cut Cafe.
The hub of town life, the Leigh Creek Tavern ( 08-8675 2025; leighcreektav-
[e-mail]; Black Oak Dr, Leigh Creek; motel s/d $110/150, cabins s/d/f $90/100/
130; ) offers jaunty '90s-style motel rooms, basic cabins a few hundred metres from
the pub, and miner-sized bistro meals (mains $12 to $24, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm
to 8pm).
About 6km north of Leigh Creek is the sweet meaninglessness of little Copley (popu-
lation 80). Copley Cabin & Caravan Park ( 08-8675 2288; www.copleycaravan.com.au ;
Railway Tce W, Copley; unpowered/powered sites $25/28, cabins d $80-150; ) is a going con-
cern: a small, immaculate park. Down the street is Copley Bush Bakery & Quandong
Cafe ( www.copleybushbakery.com.au ; Railway Tce, Copley; items $4-6;

8am-4pm) , serving

decent coffee and delicious quandong pies.
Iga Warta ( 08-8648 3737; www.igawarta.com ; Arkaroola Rd; unpowered sites $36, dm &
tents per person $36, cabins/safari tents d $104/150) , 57km east of Copley on the way into
Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park, is an indigenous-run establishment offer-
ing Adnyamathanha cultural experiences ($25 to $75) as well as 4WD and bushwalking
tours ($52 to $228). The various onsite accommodation is open to all comers.
Immediately after Iga Warta just before the national park is Nepabunna , an
Adnyamathanha community that manages the local land.

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Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park

Blanketing 1282 sq km of desert, the remote Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National
Park ( www.environment.sa.gov.au ) has deep gorges, rugged ranges, yellow-footed rock
wallabies and gum-lined creeks. Most of the park is difficult to access (4WDs are near
compulsory) and has limited facilities. The rangers hang out at the Balcanoona Park Of-
fice ( 08-8648 4829, info line 08-8204 1910) , 99km from Copley.
The area around Grindells Hut has expansive views and stark ridges all around. You
can reach it on a 4WD track off the Arkaroola road, or by walking through Weetootla