Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Gorge . It's a 13km return hike − you might want to stay the night at Grindells Hut.
Check with the ranger before driving or walking into this area.
The park has six bush camping (per person/car $8/5) areas, including Italowie Gorge,
Grindells Hut, Weetootla Gorge and Arcoona Bluff. Pick up camping permits at Bal-
canoona Park HQ. There are two huts that can be booked at the ranger's office: Grindells
Hut (up to 8 people $145) and Balcanoona Shearer's Quarters (d/tr $40/65, exclusive use
up to 18 people $265) .
TOP OF CHAPTER
Arkaroola
A privately operated wildlife reserve-resort 129km east of Copley on unsealed roads,
Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary ( 08-8648 4848, 1800 676 042; www.arkaroola.com.au )
S occupies a far-flung and utterly spectacular part of the Flinders Ranges. The visitor
information centre ( 9am-5pm) has displays on local natural history, including a sci-
entific explanation of the tremors that often shake things up hereabouts.
The absolute must-do highlight of Arkaroola is the four-hour 4WD Ridgetop Tour
(adult $120) through wild mountain country, complete with white-knuckle climbs and des-
cents towards the freakish Sillers Lookout. Once you've extracted your fingernails from
your seat, look for wedge-tailed eagles and yellow-footed rock wallabies. You can also
book guided or tag-along tours (drives and walks) through the area. Most areas are ac-
cessible in a regular car, with some hiking to pump up your pulse.
The resort (Arkaroola Rd Camp; unpowered/powered sites $18/25, cabins $40, cottages
$130-175, motel d $145-175; ) includes a motel complex and caravan park. Camp sites
range from dusty hilltop spots to creekside corners; the comfortable cabins are a good
budget bet. Other facilities include a woody bar-restaurant (mains $15 to $30, serving
noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm), a supermarket and service station.
OUTBACK
The area north of the Eyre Peninsula and the Flinders Ranges stretches into the vast,
empty spaces of SA's outback. If you're prepared, travelling through this sparsely popu-
lated and harsh country is utterly rewarding.
Heading into the red heart of Australia on the Stuart Hwy, Woomera is the first pit
stop, with its dark legacy of nuclear tests and shiny collection of left-over rockets. Fur-
ther north, the opal-mining town of Coober Pedy is an absolute one-off: a desolate hu-
 
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