Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Irish take great pride in their beer. At pubs, long hand pulls are used to draw the
traditional, rich-flavored “real ales” up from the cellar. These are the connoisseur's favor-
ites: They're fermented naturally, vary from sweet to bitter, and often have a hoppy or
nutty flavor. Experiment with obscure local microbrews (a small but growing presence on
the Irish beer scene). Short hand pulls at the bar mean colder, fizzier, mass-produced, and
less interesting keg beers. Stout is dark and more bitter, like Guinness. If you think you
don't like Guinness, try it in Ireland. It doesn't travel well and is better in its homeland.
Murphy's is a very good Guinness-like stout, but a bit smoother and milder. For a cold,
refreshing, basic, American-style beer, ask for a lager, such as Harp. Ale drinkers swear by
Smithwick's (I know I do). Caffrey's is a satisfying cross between stout and ale. Try the
draft cider (sweet or dry)...carefully. Teetotalers can order a soft drink.
Pubs are generally open daily from 11:00 to 23:30 and Sunday from noon to 22:30.
Children are served food and soft drinks in pubs (sometimes in a courtyard or the restaur-
ant section). You'll often see signs behind the bar asking that children vacate the premises
by 20:00. You must be 18 to order a beer, and the Gardí (police) are cracking down hard
on pubs that don't enforce this law.
