Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
any local specialties. At open-air markets and supermarkets, you can get produce in small
quantities. Supermarkets often have good deli sections, packaged sandwiches, and some-
times salad bars. Hang on to the half-liter mineral-water bottles (sold everywhere for about
€1).Buyjuiceincheapliterboxes,thendrinksomeandstoretheextrainyourwaterbottle.
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for sightseeing.
Pubs are a basic part of the Irish social scene, and whether you're a teetotaler or a beer-
guzzler, they should be a part of your travel here. “Pub” is short for “public house.” It's
an extended living room where, if you don't mind the stickiness, you can feel the pulse of
Ireland.
Smarttravelersusepubstoeat,drink,getoutoftherain,watchthelatestsportingevent,
and make new friends. Unfortunately, many city pubs have been afflicted with an excess
of brass, ferns, and video games. Today the most traditional atmospheric pubs are in Ire-
land's countryside and smaller towns.
Pub grub gets better every year—it's Ireland's best eating value. But don't expect high
cuisine; this is, after all, comfort food. For about $15-20, you'll get a basic hot lunch or
dinner in friendly surroundings. Pubs that are attached to restaurants, advertise their food,
and are crowded with locals are more likely to have fresh food and a chef than to be the
kind of pub that sells only lousy microwaved snacks.
Pub menus consist of a hearty assortment of traditional dishes, such as Irish stew (mut-
ton with mashed potatoes, onions, carrots, and herbs), soups and chowders, coddle (ba-
con, pork sausages, potatoes, and onions stewed in layers), fish-and-chips, collar and cab-
bage (boiled bacon coated in bread crumbs and brown sugar, then baked and served with
cabbage), boxty (potato pancake filled with fish, meat, or vegetables), and champ (potato
mashed with milk and onions). Irish soda bread nicely rounds out a meal. In coastal areas,
a lot of seafood is available, such as mackerel, mussels, and Atlantic salmon. There's sel-
dom table service in Irish pubs. Order drinks and meals at the bar. Pay as you order, and
only tip (by rounding up to avoid excess coinage) if you like the service.
I recommend certain pubs, and your B&B host is usually up-to-date on the best neigh-
borhood pub grub. Ask for advice (but adjust for nepotism and cronyism, which run
rampant).
When you say “a beer, please” in an Irish pub, you'll get a pint of Guinness (the tall
blonde in a black dress). If you want a small beer, ask for a glass, which is a half-pint.
Never rush your bartender when he's pouring a Guinness. It's an almost-sacred two-step
process that requires time for the beer to settle.
