Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Ring of Kerry vs. the Dingle Peninsula
If I had to choose one spot to enjoy the small-town charm of traditional Ireland, it
would be Dingle and its history-laden scenic peninsula. But the Ring of Kerry—a
much bigger, more famous, and more touristed peninsula just to its south—is also
great to visit. If you go to Ireland and don't see the famous Ring of Kerry, your
uncle Pat will never forgive you. Here's a comparison to help with your itinerary
planning.
Both peninsulas come with a scenic loop drive. Dingle's is 30 miles. The Ring of
Kerry is 120 miles. Both loops come with lots of megalithic wonder. Dingle's pre-
history is more intimate, with numerous little evocative stony structures. The Ring
of Kerry's prehistory shows itself in three massive ring forts—far bigger than any-
thing on Dingle.
Dingle town is the perfect little Irish burg—alive with traditional music pubs,
an active fishing harbor, and the sturdy cultural atmosphere of an Irish-speaking
Gaeltacht region. You can easily spend three fun nights here. In comparison, Ken-
mare (the best base for the Ring of Kerry loop) is pleasant but forgettable. Those
spending a night on the west end of the Ring of Kerry find a rustic atmosphere in
Portmagee (the base for a cruise to magical Skellig Michael).
Near Dingle, the heather-and moss-covered Great Blasket Island and the excel-
lent Great Blasket Centre offer insights into the storytelling traditions and simple
lives of hardy fisher-folk who—until 60 years ago—lived just off the tip of the
Dingle Peninsula. Skellig Michael is a brutally rugged and remote chunk of rock in
the Atlantic off the tip of the Ring of Kerry, with evocative medieval stone ruins
of its long-gone hermit-monks. It's a world-class sight, but the Skellig Experience
Centre near Portmagee on the mainland is less impressive than Dingle's Great Blas-
ket Centre.
Muckross House, with its fascinating open-air farmhouse museum and beautiful
lake views of Killarney National Park, is on the eastern side of the Ring of Kerry.
It's also an efficient and natural stop for those driving between Kinsale and
Dingle—so you can see it regardless of which scenic peninsula drive you take.
Both regions are beyond the reach of the Irish train system and require a car or
spotty bus service to access. Both offer memorable scenery, great restaurants, warm
B&B hospitality, and similar prices. The bottom line: With limited time, choose
Dingle. If you have a day or two to spare, the Ring of Kerry is also a delight.
75 km:
St. Finian's Bay lies about halfway around, with a pleasant little picnic-friendly
beach that's recently been discovered by surfers (no WCs). Just before the bay is the small,
modern Skelligs Chocolate Factory, with free, tasty samples as well as a café for coffee
and muffins (Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00, especially fun for kids, tel. 066/
947-9119,
www.skelligschocolate.com
)
.
