Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
0 km: Leave Kenmare.
17.6 km: On the right is Glacier Lake, with a long, smooth limestone “banister” carved
by a glacier 10,000 years ago.
22.8 km: The recommended Parknasilla Hotel—a posh 19th-century hotel—is a great
stop for tea and scones.
26 km: Visit the town of Sneem.
40.4 km: Turn off for the Staigue Ring Fort.
41.5 km: Ontheleft, enjoygreat viewsoftheBeara Peninsula beyondaruinedhospital
with IRA ties (it was funded about 1910 by a local Englishwoman sympathetic to the Irish
Republican cause). No one wants to touch these ruins today, out of fear of “kicking up a
beehive.”
43.5 km: Carroll's Cove has a fine beach with some of the warmest water in Ireland,
grand views of Kenmare Bay, a local trailer park, and “Ireland's only beachside bar.”
46.4 km: Take the turnoff for Derrynane House (home of Daniel O'Connell).
50.4 km: Enjoy brilliant views for the next two kilometers to Coomakesta Pass.
52.4 km: The Coomakesta Pass lookout point (700-foot altitude) offers grand vistas in
both directions.
54.5 km: Watch for fine views of the Skellig Islands.
56.4 km: Notice the ruins of famine villages on both sides of the road.
59.6 km: In the town of Waterville, you'll see a sculpture of Charlie Chaplin on the
left. Waterville is also home to the Butler Arms Hotel—a fine stop for tea and scones in
its Charlie Chaplin room (with lots of photos of the silent-film icon and his young wife
frolicking as they lived well in Ireland).
65 km: After rejoining the main road and turning left, cross the small bridge that's
locally famous for salmon fly-fishing. Take the first left (R-567) for the Skellig Ring
loop (follow brown Skellig Ring signs through Ballinskelligs, and then scenically to Port-
magee). At this point, you've left the big-bus route.
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