Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
on until their final defeat a year later. James the Second (called “James da Turd” by those
who scorn his lack of courage and leadership) never returned, and he died a bitter ex-mon-
arch in France. King William of Orange's victory, on the other hand, is still celebrated in
Northern Ireland every July 12, with controversial marches by Unionist “Orangemen.”
The 50,000 soldiers who fought here made this the largest battle ever to take place in
the British Isles. Yet it was only a side skirmish in an even larger continental confronta-
tion pitting France's King Louis XIV against the “Grand Alliance” of nations threatened
by France's dominant military and frequent incursions into neighboring lands.
Louis ruled by divine right, answerable only to God—and James modeled himself after
Louis. Even the pope (who could control neither Louis nor James and was equally dis-
turbed by Catholic France's aggressions) backed Protestant King William against Catholic
King James—just one example of the pretzel logic that was the European mindset at the
time.
The site of the Battle of the Boyne was bought in 1997 by the Irish Office of Public
Works, part of the Republic's governmental efforts to respect a place sacred to Unionists
in Northern Ireland—despite the fact that the battle's outcome ensured Catholic subordin-
ation to the Protestant minority for the next 230 years.
Visiting the Site:
The
Visitors Centre
is housed in a mansion built on the battlefield
50 years after the conflict. The exhibits do a good job illustrating the international nature
of the battle and its place in the wider context of European political power struggles. The
highlight is a huge battleground model with laser lights that move troops around the ter-
rain, showing the battle's ebb and flow on that bloody day. A separate 15-minute film
(shown in the former stable house) runs continuously and does a fine job of fleshing out
the battle.
The Sunday afternoon
“Living History” demonstrations
(June-Aug) are a treat for
history buffs and photographers, with guides clad in 17th-century garb. You'll get a bang
out of the musket loading and firing demo (at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, and 17:00), see cavalry
combat in full gallop (at 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00), and learn that to be an Irish watermelon
is to fear the sword.
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Hill of Tara
This site was the most important center of political and religious power in pre-Christian
Ireland. While aerial views show plenty of mystifying circles and lines, wandering with
the sheep among the well-worn ditches and hills leaves you with more to feel than to
see. Visits are made meaningful by an excellent 20-minute video presentation and the
caring 20-minute guided walk that follows (available upon request and entirely worth-
while). Wear good walking shoes—the ground is uneven and often wet.
