Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of development money, the Temple Bar district has now become a thriving cultural (and
beer-drinking) hot spot.
Temple Bar can be an absolute spectacle in the evening, when it bursts with revelers.
The noise, pushy crowds, and inflated prices have driven most Dubliners away. But even
if you're just gawking, don't miss the opportunity to wander through this human circus. It
can be a real zoo on summer weekend nights, holidays, and nights after big sporting events
let out. Women in funky hats, part of loud “hen” (bachelorette) parties, promenade down
the main drag as drunken dudes shout from pub doorways to get their attention. Be aware
that a pint of beer here is at least €1 more than at less glitzy pubs just a couple of blocks
away (north of the River Liffey or south of Dame Street).
Temple Bar Square,
just off Temple Bar Street (near Ha' Penny Bridge), is the epi-
center of activity. It hosts free street theater and a Saturday book market, and has handy
ATMs. On busy weekends, people-watching here is a contact sport. You're bound to meet
some characters.
Irish music fans find great CDs at
Claddagh Records
(Cecilia Street, just around the
corner from Luigi Malone's, Mon and Wed-Sat 11:30-17:30, closed Sun and Tue, tel. 01/
677-0262). Unlike big, glitzy chain stores, this is a little hole-in-the-wall shop staffed by
informed folks who love turning visitors on to Irish tunes. Grab a couple of CDs for your
drive through the Irish countryside. Farther west and somewhat hidden is
Meeting House
Square,
with a lively organic-produce market (Sat 10:00-18:00). Bordering the square is
the
Irish Film Institute
(mainentryonEustaceStreet),whichshowsavarietyofart-house
flicks. A bohemian crowd relaxes in its bar/café, awaiting the next film (6 Eustace Street,
box office daily 13:30-21:00, tel. 01/679-5744,
www.irishfilm.ie
)
.
Rather than follow particular pub or restaurant recommendations (mine are listed later,
under “Eating in Dublin”), venture down a few side lanes off the main drag to see what
looks good. The pedestrian-only
Ha' Penny Bridge,
named for the halfpence toll people
used to pay to cross it, leads from Temple Bar over the River Liffey to the opposite bank
and more sights. If the rowdy Temple Bar scene gets to be too much, cross over to the
north bank of the River Liffey on the Millennium Pedestrian Bridge (next bridge west of
the Ha
'
Penny Bridge), where you'll find a mellower, more cosmopolitan choice of res-
