Travel Reference
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through which two feuding, sword-bearing 15th-century nobles shook hands...“chancing
their arms” and giving the Irish that expression of trust.
Cost and Hours: €5.50 donation to church, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-18:30, Sun
12:30-15:00, last entry one hour before closing.
Evensong: You'll get chills listening to the local “choir of angels” Mon-Fri at 17:45
and Sun at 15:15.
▲▲▲ Temple Bar
This much-promoted area—with trendy shops, cafés, theaters, galleries, pubs with live
music, and restaurants—feels like the heart of the city. It's Dublin's touristy “Left Bank,”
and as in Paris, it's on the south shore of the river, filling the cobbled streets between
Dame Street and the River Liffey.
Three hundred years ago, this was the city waterfront, where tall sailing ships offloaded
their goods (a “bar” was a loading dock along the river, and the Temples were a dominant
merchant family). Eventually, the city grew eastward, filling in tidal mudflats, to create the
docklandsofmodernDublin.OnceathrivingGeorgiancenterofcraftsmen andmerchants,
this neighborhood fell on hard times in the 20th century. Ensuing low rents attracted stu-
dents and artists, giving the area a bohemian flair. With government tax incentives and lots
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