Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE IRRAWADDY DOLPHIN
If there's one creature that's exempted from a Lao diet famous for consuming everything
that hops, flies, swims or crawls, it's the rare
Irrawaddy dolphin
, which has been known
to make its way upstream from Cambodia to frolic in the waters of Si Phan Don. Bluish-
grey and up to 2.5m long, the freshwater dolphins are looked upon by islanders as reincarn-
ated humans with a human spirit - an idea that's been etched into local lore by folk songs
and stories of dolphins rescuing people from the jaws of crocodiles. But sadly, the dolphins
themselves may soon be no more than legend.
Over the past hundred years their population in the Mekong has dwindled from thousands
to around 75, and as few as ten now inhabit the area near Don Khon. Gill-net fishing and,
across the border in Cambodia, the use of poison, electricity and explosives have caused
dolphin
numbers to plummet
. In the past, fishermen were reluctant to cut costly nets to
free entangled dolphins, causing them to drown, but this no longer happens, as Lao villa-
gers are now compensated for their nets - part of an initiative begun by the Lao Community
Fisheries and Dolphin Protection Project. A more pressing threat to the dolphins' survival
is the vast Don Sahong dam, currently being built south of Don Khon, which scientists be-
lieve could change the river's hydrological balance forever.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Although Don Khon was the first island to take off with backpackers, Don Det has now
surpassed its larger neighbour in popularity, and has taken on a distinctly Vang Vieng feel.
There's not a huge difference in
accommodation
on the two islands, and where you stay is
largely a matter of shopping around for a bungalow or room to suit your taste and budget. On
DonKhon
, most of the bungalows are located near Ban Khon on the north end of the island.
Bungalow places are scattered all the way around
Don Det
, but the north side of the island
has by far the highest concentration. In fact, this part of the island can get so busy in high
season that it's difficult to cycle down its winding dirt streets. Food, not accommodation, is
the real money-earner here, and every bungalow place has a
restaurant
serving (quite aver-
age) Lao food and the usual traveller's fare, so you may want to take some of your meals at
the bungalow you're staying at.
DON KHON
Sala Done Khone
Next door to Mr Bounh's 031 260940,
salalao.com
.
The rooms in
this converted French-era bungalow, which was once a hospital, feature a/c and hot-water
showers. Further down the road there are stylish floati
ng r
ooms with vaulted ceilings, separ-
ate daybeds and balconies just inches above the water.
$50
Seng Ahloune
Just east of the bridge 031 260934,
sengahloune.com
.
Very close to the
old French bridge and popular with tour groups, this big restaurant has bright bungalows
