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lining the waterfront. They're not espec iall y cheap, but are quiet and central with polished
wooden floors and roomy shower areas. $40
Somphamit Just west of the Sala Done Khong hotel on the main river road 020 526 2491.
Comfortable riverside bamboo bungalows equipped with fans and wide, shared terraces with
decent hammocks. All of the rooms are en-suite, which ma y explain why some of them are a
little musty. Ask to see a couple before dumping your bags. 60,000K
SunsetParadiseGuesthouse The easternmost guesthouse on the main riverside path in Ban
Khon (no phone). Spacious and solid, these wooden bungalows face one another across a
peaceful garden, just back from the river. The helpful st aff speak English and French, and
there's good food at the restaurant overlooking the water. 100,000K
DON DET
Bountip's Eastside Guesthouse On the east coast of the island, south of the Crazy Gecko
restaurant 054 813900. Exceptionally cheap bungalows that just happen to be located in a
very peaceful coconut grove by the water's edge. It's a bit of a walk fro m the ce ntre of Ban
Hua Det, however, and you'll have to share a tatty cold-water bathroom. 30,000K
CrazyGecko Sunrise side, south of Don Det Bungalows. This laidback riverfront restaurant,
with a terrace strewn with swinging lanterns and tropical plants, stands out for its varied
menu, which dares to deviate from fried rice and pancakes. Dishes include a lightly spiced
pumpkin burger (20,000K) and tasty Lao soups. Daily 7am-9.30pm.
Don Det Bungalows On the east coast of the island, around 1.2km south of the centre of
Ban Hua Det 020 2300 4959. For something quiet and relatively classy, try these comfy
bungalows, which have swooping Lao-style roofli nes and c ocoon-like hammocks. There's a
reasonable restaurant on the other side of the path. 130,000K
KeoInpeng Towards the northern end of the island off Ban Hua Det's main drag (no phone).
Hard to spot off the main drag (look for the small sign on the right as you walk south from
the beach), K eo Inpen g has good-value en-suite rooms in a modern block that's surrounded
by marigolds. 60,000K
The Last Resort On the west side of the island, around 750m from town facebook.com/
lastresortdondet . This self-styled travellers' community was started by a former banker from
the UK. Thatched wigwams sleeping two to four people are set around a sociable garden
that's home to a fire pit and an open-air cinema. Organic herbs and vegetables grown on site
are used in communal meals each night. 60,000K
Little Eden Ban Hua Det, just west of the northernmost beach littleedenguesthouse-don-
det.com . Mature banana plants signal your arrival at the village's smartest resort, which has
shiny-clean rooms. If y ou can af ford to push the boat out, go for one of the brighter deluxe
rooms (70,000K extra). 250,000K
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