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sandwiches and cakes on offer, plus a range of coffees and fruit juices. The Nam Khan branch
is the nicer of the two, with a sun-trap veranda and seating by the river. Daily 7am-9pm.
Le Banneton Sakkaline Rd 020 5464 9189; map . Situated a little up from Wat Sene,
this superb café-boulangerie feels decidedly French, with an excellent choice of patisseries,
including the best croissants in town, plus delicious baguettes and good coffee. Breakfast sets
from 40,000K. Daily 6.30am-6pm.
Le Café Ban Vat Sene Sakkaline Rd 071 252482, elephant-restau.com ; map . This
charming café, with its artfully distressed exterior and cool, fan-spun interior, is a wonderful
place to lose a few hours, whether over a lunchtime baguette (around 40,000K) or an after-
noon coffee with one of their delicious cakes - including a heavenly banana tatin (24,000K).
Daily 6.30am-10pm.
L'EtrangerBooks&Tea Ban Wat Aphay 071 260248; map . The tables outside this great
little bookshop are perfect for a refreshing drink while you watch the world go by (local mul-
berry green tea 15,000K), though the food is so-so. A small room upstairs hosts an interesting
exhibition on Lao culture and life, and movies are shown nightly. Daily 7am-10pm.
Le Patio Café Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre, Kitsalat Rd 071 253364,
elephant-restau.com ; map . The veranda café of the 1920s colonial mansion that houses the
TAEC is a handsome, genteel place for lunch after a spin round the exhibition, with an inter-
esting and reasonably priced menu of tribal-influenced Lao dishes (Hmong pork belly, for in-
stance, or Akha meatballs; both 28,000K) and baguettes from 30,000K. Tues-Sun 9am-6pm.
Saffron Branches on Souliyavongsa and Inthasone roads 020 5458 7134, saffroncof-
fee.com ; map . The best place in town for a pulse-quickening espresso, either inside among
sepia photos and jazz music, or (at the Souliyavongsa branch) outside on the terrace over-
looking the Mekong. There's a good range of breakfasts, including a delicious granola bowl
(20,000K), and you can also buy their own locally grown coffee here. Daily 7am-9pm.
RESTAURANTS
THE OLD CITY
3 Nagas Sakkaline Rd 071 253888, 3-nagas.com ; map . One of the best places in
town for Lao food - beautifully prepared and presented - with an atmospheric dining room
that opens onto Sakkaline Road. Try the exquisite larp with sliced Mekong fish (56,000K) or
the lemongrass stuffed with pork (60,000K). The wine list is excellent, and the boozy cock-
tails (Lao sling 50,000k) to die for. Daily 6.30am-10.30pm.
The Apsara Soukkaseum Rd 071 254670, theapsara.com ; map . Head chef Luke
bristles at the word, but the fusion cooking at this lovely hotel's excellent restaurant is some
of the city's best, with a short menu combining Southeast Asian ingredients with Aussie
flair. Lunch covers local classics for around 50,000K, while dinner is a bit more adventurous
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