Travel Reference
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and might include smoked fish with betel leaf (45,000K) and slow-cooked buffalo cheeks
(90,000K). Daily 11.30am-3pm & 6-9.30pm.
Big Tree Café Souliyavongsa Rd 020 7777 6748, bigtreecafe.com ; map . One of many
places on this stretch of the Mekong with terraced seating overlooking the river, this cute
gallery-cum-restaurant serves an interesting variety of Western, Korean and Lao food, and
has breakfast sets starting from 40,000K. Mon-Sat 8.30am-9.30pm.
Blue Lagoon Ounheuan Rd 071 253698, blue-lagoon-restaurant.com ; map . Popular
with expats, the best seats here are in the atmospheric garden courtyard. The mixed European
(mainly Swiss) and Asian menu is a little pricy ( larp 78,000K; buffalo fillet with Gruyère and
rösti 136,000K), but the presentation and service is absolutely superb. Daily 10am-10.30pm.
Boungnasouk Souliyavongsa Rd 071 212749; map . The menu here features a wider se-
lection of Lao and Asian food than most restaurants on this strip, including a delicious, herb-
filled beef larp (30,000K). Head for the seating on the lower terrace for good views of the
river. Daily 8am-9pm.
Café Toui Sisavangvatthani Rd 020 5657 6763, cafetoui.com ; map . A small, intimate
place with a couple of pavement tables. The menu is predominantly Lao, though the baguettes
make this an excellent lunch stop; the highlight is the set Lao menu that offers a taster of local
dishes including mok pa and larp for 80,000K. There's also Twinings tea for those craving a
cuppa. Daily 10am-10pm.
Coconut Garden Sisavangvong Rd 071 260436, elephant-restau.com ; map . The most
atmospheric choice on this stretch of the main road, with a lantern-lit courtyard, coconut
palms and ambient music. The Lao dishes are very tasty, if a little on the small side - try
the kranab pa (grilled river fish stuffed with pork and herbs and wrapped in a banana leaf
(48,000K). Daily 8am-11.30pm.
L'Eléphant Sathouyaithao Rd 071 252482, elephant-restau.com ; map . Situated in a
beautiful colonial building, this acclaimed, upmarket restaurant is the kind of place where
you almost expect to see Humphrey Bogart stroll in. The menu is predominantly French, so
expect the likes of frogs' legs provençale (115,000K) and duck breast with dauphinoise pota-
toes (150,000K), though (more reasonably priced) Lao essentials are covered as well. Daily
noon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm.
Luang Prabang Bakery Sisavangvong Rd 020 5557 0384, lpbgh.com ; map . This sur-
prisingly smart little place has an extensive menu that encompasses pizza, sandwiches and a
good choice of Lao dishes, plus a tempting selection of baked goods; they also set up a night-
time cake stall nearby outside the Ancient Luang Prabang . Most mains 60,000-70,000K.
Daily 10am-10pm.
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