Luang Prabang - The Rough Guide to Laos - page 192

Kiridara Highway 13, 1.5km south of the centre 071 261888, snhcollection.com/kirid-
ara ; map . Perhaps the most architecturally striking - from a distance at least - of all Luang
Prabang's hotels, set in a series of pitch-roofed, Lao-style pavilions that climb the forested
slopes of Phou Wen, Kiridara is often one of the first glimpses of the city from the air. Rooms
feature timber floors, stone walls and well-chosen Lao fabrics, though views of the city are
side on from all but the suites ($336). The infinity pool and the spa are big plus point s, bu t
overall it perhaps lacks the finesse (and high price tag) of the city's very top properties. $192
La Résidence Phou Vao At the eastern end of Kaysone Phomvihane Rd, 1.5km south
of the centre 071 212530, residencephouvao.com ; map . A beautiful, sophisticated hotel
that lives up to its expensive price tag. All of the huge, wood-heavy rooms have private bal-
conies, some with views of Phousi in the distance, and are sumptuously decorated. The spa,
with pavilions set among the lush grounds, is a heavenly retreat, and the swimming pool is
welcome respite after the heat of the city. A shuttle r uns i nto town on demand (and hourly in
the evenings), or it's just a 20min walk to the centre. $650
LuangSayResidence 2km south of the centre 071 260891, luangsayresidence.com ;
map . Set in gorgeous colonial-style villas amid palm and banana-leaf gardens, this exquisite
luxury hotel unashamedly summons all the spirit and exotic mystery of imperial Indochine -
despite only dating back to 2010. The huge, light suites, with columns and big bay windows,
are irresistibly decadent, and highlights include top-class French cuisine at the Belle-Epoque
restaurant and aft erno on tea in the Henri Mouhot-dedicated 1861 Bar . Guests have use of the
spa at Phou Vao . $530
Ock Pop Tok Villa Photisalath Rd, 2km southwest of the centre 071 212597, ockp-
optok.com ; map . Blending beautiful textiles and classic Luang Prabang style, the four rooms
at the Living Crafts Centre's new villa are full of colour and winning details (such as Akha-
headdress lampshades). Though a bit out of town, it's ideal for a class (see Ock Pop Tok ) ,
circuit of Phosy Market or - from the more expensive riverside rooms - just to sit and ponder
this lazy stretch of the Mekong. Breakfast is served in the centre's excell ent Silk Road Café ,
and there's free transfer to the centre - or grab a bike and cycle yourself. $60
SpicyLaos/LemonLaos 020 2255 5539; map . Prone to periodic identity crises (hence the
twin names), this long-established backpacker joint has cheap, but not hugely cheerful ac-
commodation in very dark dorms - so great for escaping the heat, or recoveri ng from a Beer-
lao han gover. There's a large patio and a great communal vibe. Dorm from 30,000K , double
70,000K
Thongbay 500m down a track off Highway 13, 2km southeast of the old city 071
253234, thongbay-guesthouses.com ; map . The sixteen rustic, wood-and-thatch bungalows
here are set in a beautiful garden, with the best looking over the Nam Khan. Though a bit of a
distance from the centre, the peaceful location more than makes up for it, and there are bikes