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(perhaps) a shared balcony. Smarter still are the large family rooms in the connected annexe,
though for this money ($4 0) you'd be better continuing down the lane to Villa Merry 1 , in a
gorgeous spot on the river. 60,000K
Muong Lao Ban Wat Aphay 071 252741, thavone9@gmail.com ; map . The rooms at
this good-value, friendly guesthouse opposite Wat Visoun are simple, but very pleasant,
and the old-fashioned, all-wood rooms upstairs hav e a nice s hared balcony overlooking the
temple. There's also an attractive outside restaurant. 140,000K
Thony 1 Ban Wat Aphay 071 212805, thony1guesthouse.com ; map . The highlight of
a stay here is the lovely communal area overlooking the river where you can enjoy a cold
beer. The wood-panelled river-view rooms are the nicest, if a little o verpriced ($35), though
if you're on a budget the smaller viewless rooms aren't a bad option. 100,000K
Villayvanh Ban Wat Aphay 071 252757; map . Nestling among coconut palms down the
warren of lanes leading to Utopia , this welcoming little guesthouse is a real find. Rooms
(with TV) are immaculately m aintained ; the wood-floored ones at the back feel slightly new-
er. Free tea and coffee all day. 120,000K
SOUTH OF THE CENTRE
Amantaka Kitsalat Rd 071 860333, amanresorts.com ; map . The old hospital provides
a fantastic setting for Luang Prabang's most exclusive hotel. The huge, high-ceilinged suites
- many of which have private pools - provide a cool retreat from the city and have been el-
egan tly furnished. Afternoon tea is served daily in the library, and the spa is a blissful treat.
$800
Hôtel de la Paix Off Manomai Rd, 1km south of the centre 071 260777,
hoteldelapaixlp.com ; map . Set around a leafy quadrangle within the forbidding high walls of
the town's surprisingly attractive former prison compound - the lack of signs adding to the
air of exclusivity - the sister hotel to the 3 Nagas offers luxury aplenty and a great sense of
seclusion. Vast suites feel Zen-like in their minimalism, with a muted palette of greys that
nods to its former function - yet with private plunge pools (with some rooms), private gar-
dens (with all), a cookery school , gor geous spa and a seemingly endless pool, this is one place
you wouldn't mind doing time. $504
Jaliya Manomai Rd 071 252154; map . Facing onto a lovely private garden and tucked well
away from the road, the rooms at t his old-fa shioned, peaceful place are all very clean and
comfortable, with TVs. Good value. 120,000K
Khammany Inn Photisalath Rd 020 9529 3925, khammanyhostel@gmail.com ;
map . Professionally run and immaculately kept, this sociable place, a 10min walk from the
old city, is hugely popular with backpackers and justifiably so. Ask for one of the smaller
basement dorms - from the first- floor 16 -bedder there's a two-storey hop down to the bath-
room. Breakfast included. Dorm 45,000K , double 160,000K
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