THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Panama - page 366

GUNA YALA ESSENTIALS
WHEN TO GO
Peak tourist season in Guna Yala, as elsewhere in Panama, is the dry season (mid-Dec to
April) though for some of the period, you'll suffer from the trade winds (Dec-Feb/March),
which whip up the waters, impairing snorkelling and leaving the outer islands inaccessible.
Late March and April are more appealing times to visit, although water levels can be low
on the mainland, restricting river trips. The wet season lasts from May to mid-Dec; in the
early months, from May to July, the unbearable humidity from the lack of breeze is bal-
anced by a sea that can be millpond-still - perfect for snorkelling, except during the after-
noon downpours, when run-off muddies the waters. June to October spells the season for
chocosanos , terrifying electric tempests that generate monstrous waves capable of flooding
an island and dashing a ship onto a reef in an instant.
WHAT TO TAKE
A mosquito net may be a good idea, together with lashings of repellent, sun cream, a basic
first-aid kit and a torch and/or candles since there is limited or no electricity on some is-
lands. Some kind of waterproof protection, such as a plastic bin liner, is desirable to protect
your gear from getting soaked in the boat, and you may want a breathable waterproof for
yourself. In budget accommodation it's a good idea to take some snacks with you, as meal
portions are often small. It's not advisable to drink tap water in Guna Yala. Some hotels
provide purified water for guests at meals; most charge. Bottled water is on sale in most
islands, but is very expensive and its disposal an environmental headache; using a water
filter or purifying tablets is preferable.
TAXES AND MONEY
At the entrance to the comarca at Nusugandi, all non-Guna have to pay a tourist tax ($10
for foreigners), which is not included in transport costs. In addition, you will have to pay
$2 at the dock. In addition, visitors generally have to pay a community tax ($1-14 on the
island villages, $2-5 on near-deserted beach islands), even if only stopping there for half
an hour - these costs are usually not included in tour packages . There's only one bank
(with ATM) in the comarca and it's in Narganá, so you need to take all the cash you might
need with you, in small denominations. Some of the more expensive lodges accept on-
line credit-card payments for the basic package but extras - drinks, community taxes, extra
tours, snorkel hire, etc - will need to be paid in cash.
Brief history
Guna oral history traces their origins to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta of present-day Co-
lombia. Fleeing from tribes such as the Emberá, they took refuge in the mountainous areas
of the Darién , including Mount Tacarcuna - the highest peak in eastern Panama (1874m),