Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
lying just outside the
comarca
- which became a sacred place in folklore. Violent conflict
ensued against the Spanish, with the Guna often forming unlikely alliances with English and
French pirates, and gradually being forced towards the Caribbean. Though Guna had visited
the coast for many years, colonization of the
islands
they inhabit today did not start until
the mid-nineteenth century as they sought greater access to passing traders and escape from
disease-carrying insects on the mainland.
Panamanian independence
Geographical isolation ensured the Guna were pretty much left alone until
Panamanian in-
dependence
in 1903, when the new state refused to recognize the
Comarca Dulenega
, which
had been established by Colombia in 1870. It covered Guna territories straddling the two
countries and had guaranteed a certain measure of independence.
The Revolución Dule
Tension between the
Guna Congress
and Panamanian authorities escalated as the latter gran-
ted concessions to outsiders to plunder resources in Guna territory and persistently attempted
to suppress Guna culture - banning women's traditional attire or force-feeding communities
with missionaries and colonial schooling. Matters came to a head in 1925, when a gathering
of Guna leaders on Ailigandi resolved to declare independence and rose up in what is proudly
commemorated as the
Revolución Dule
(Guna Revolution). Around forty people lost their
lives, and only the intervention of the US - concerned for the safety of the canal - preven-
ted further government reprisals. A settlement was finally reached in 1938, when the Guna
agreed to recognize Panamanian sovereignty in exchange for a clearly defined
comarca
and
a high degree of political autonomy.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: GUNA YALA
Most visitors, and the Guna themselves, bound for the western or even some of the central
islands, now travel from Panama City by road, which connects with the western end of the
comarca
, and then transfer to a boat on arrival at the coast. The other main means of transport
is by light aircraft that leave from Albrook airport. Access by boat is much more limited and
unpredictable, with no scheduled services.
BY ROAD
By car
It takes around three hours by road from Panama City to the dock at Cartí. Heading
east out of Panama City on the Interamericana, the turn-off for Guna Yala is just east of
Chepo, where the 40km El Llano-Cartí road crosses the peaks of the Serranía de San Blas to
the Caribbean coast. Though now paved, the road is still treacherous as it's incredibly steep,
winding, narrow and increasingly potholed, so 4WD is strongly advised. In fact, you will
probably be denied entry to the
comarca
unless you are in a 4WD, and even then usually
only in the summer months. Vehicle entry fee is $10; you'll then need to pay $3-5/night for
parking.
