Provence & the French Riviera - Discover France: Experience the Best of France - page 621

plush hotel has individually decorated rooms, many inspired by artists like Van
Gogh and Cézanne, with thick carpeting and spotless bathrooms. Exceptional ser-
vice.

Eating

PÉRON €€€
( 04 91 52 15 22; www.restaurant-peron.com , in French; 56 corniche Président John
F Kennedy, 7e; mains €35; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) Perched on the edge of
the corniche, with magnificent views of the Château d'If, Péron is one of Marseille's
top tables. The seafood-heavy menu (think marinated tuna, scallops with lemon
polenta) is phenomenal; book before dark to watch the sunset.

Contemporary

CHEZ MADIE LES GALINETTES €€
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Provençal

( 04 91 90 40 87; 138 quai du Port, 2e; menus €25-35; Mon-Sat, closed Sat
lunch in summer; Vieux Port) The portside terrace is perfect on long summer
evenings, but if the weather isn't cooperating, the interior's modern art brings con-
solation. The Provençal-rooted menu features lots of fish and good bouillabaisse,
which you'll need to order 48 hours ahead.

Bouillabaisse
Originally cooked by fishermen from the scraps of their catch, bouillabaisse is Marseille's
classic signature dish. True bouillabaisse includes at least four different kinds of fish,
sometimes shellfish, which is why it's served to a minimum of two people. The real McCoy
costs about €55 per person and should be reserved 48 hours ahead.

Le Rhul ( 04 91 52 01 77; www.lerhul.fr , in French; 269 corniche John F.
Kennedy; €50) This long-standing classic has atmosphere (however kitschy): a
1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views.

L'Epuisette ( 04 91 52 17 82; www.l-epuisette.com ; Vallon des Auffes; €55;
Tue-Sat) The swankest (by far) has a Michelin star and knockout water-level
views from an elegantly austere dining room.