Andalucía - Discover Spain: Experience the Best of Spain - page 565

Pampaneira, Bubión & Capileira
POP 1270 / ELEV 1200-1440M
These small villages clinging to the side of the deep Barranco de Poqueira valley,
14km to 20km northeast of Órgiva, are three of the prettiest, most dramatically sited
(and most touristy) in Las Alpujarras.
Sleeping & Eating
Renovated farmhouse Cortijo Catifalarga ( 958 34 33 57; www.catifalarga.com ; d
€76-104, apt for 2/4/6 people €99/118/141; ) is stunning and serves meals
(mains €9 to €17). The driveway begins 750m up the Sierra Nevada road from the
top of Capileira, and both the views and its eclectic food are way up there.
Information
Punto de Información Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada ( www.nevadensis.com ; Plaza de
la Libertad, Pampaneira; 10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun & Mon, Oct-March) Plenty
of region info, plus outdoor gear, maps and books for sale.
Servicio de Interpretación de Altos Cumbres ( approx 9am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm) By the
main road in Capileira; information mainly about the national park, but also on Las Alpujar-
ras.
Getting There & Away
Alsina Graells ( 958 18 54 80) runs three daily buses from Granada to Órgiva
(€4.38, 1½ hours), Pampaneira (€5.17, two hours), Bubión (€5.25, 2¼ hours), Ca-
pileira (€5.25, 2½ hours) and Pitres (€5.80, 2¾ hours).
Baeza
Baeza is where the Moors beat an earlier retreat than elsewhere in the region. Con-
sequently, it often looks more Italian than Andalucian, and exhibits one of the most
complete ensembles of Renaissance buildings in Andalucía, if not Spain. Perched
on a well-protected escarpment, Baeza also affords stunning views over endless
olive groves towards the aptly named Sierra del Mágica.
In beautiful Plaza del Pópulo is the Fuente de los Leones (Fountain of the
Lions), topped by a statue believed to represent Imilce, a local princess who was
married to Hannibal. Now a high school, the Antigua Universidad (Calle Beato