La Rambla & Barri Gòtic - Barcelona - page 125

former gates of the ancient fortified city and turn right into 3 Pla elip

NNerrii. Note the shrapnel-scarred walls of the old church, damaged by pro-Francist
bombers in 1939. A plaque commemorates the victims (mostly children) of the bomb-
ing.
Head out of the square and turn right. On this narrow lane, you'll spot a small
4 sttattue o

Plaça de Sa a de Sant F t Felip

ulàlia, one of Barcelona's patron saints who suffered various tor-
tures during her martyrdom. Make your way west to the looming 14th-century
5 Esglé

ue of Sa f Santta E a Eulàlia

ia del Pii, which is famed for its magnificent rose window. Fol-
low the curving road and zigzag down to 6 Plaça Reial , one of Barcelona's prettiest
squares. Flanking the fountain are lamp posts designed by Antoni Gaudí.
Stroll up to Carrer de la Boqueria and turn left on Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call.
This leads into the El Call district, once the heart of the medieval Jewish quarter, until
the bloody pogrom of 1391. The 7 Sinagoga Major , one of Europe's oldest, was dis-
covered in 1996. Head across Plaça de Sant Jaume and turn left after Carrer del
Bisbe. You'll soon pass the entrance to the remnants of a 8 Roman T

glésia de Sa ia de Sant Ma t Marria del P

n Temple ple, with four

columns hidden in a small courtyard.
The final stop is 9 Plaça del Rei, a picturesque plaza where Fernando and Isabel re-
ceived Columbus following his first New World voyage. The former palace today
houses a superb history museum, with significant Roman ruins underground.

EATING

First things first: skip the strip. La Rambla is fine for people-watching, but no
great shakes for the palate. Instead venture off into the streets that wind into
the Barri Gòtic and your belly (and wallet) will be eternally grateful. Inside the
medieval labyrinth, choices abound. If you had to pinpoint any one area, it
would be the eastern half of the barri (neighbourhood) near Via Laietana on
the narrow streets above the cathedral (around Carrer de les Magdalenes)
and between Plaça de Sant Jaume and the waterfront. Here you'll find a
huddle of old-time tapas bars as well as innovative newcomers. All are laden
with atmosphere.

VEGETARIAN

RASOTERRA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 93 318 69 26; Carrer del Palau 5; tapas €5-8, lunch specials €7-10;
noon-5pm Tue, to midnight Wed-Sun;

; Jaume I)