Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE CONQUEST OF AORAKI/MT COOK
Inspired by photographs of Aoraki/Mt Cook viewed in a London exhibition, Irish par-
son William Spotswood Green mounted an expedition to summit the faraway moun-
tain, accompanied by Swiss alpinists Emil Boss and Ulrich Kaufmann. In March 1882,
having overcome numerous challenges en route such as treacherous river crossings
and a fierce storm, they picked their way along Haast Ridge on the mountain's north-
ern side. Just several hundred metres shy of the top they were halted by conditions
and spent the night clinging to a narrow rock ledge at 3050m, listening to the boom of
avalanches around them. The next morning they descended, having failed to reach
the summit, although the glory of bagging the peak is often said to be theirs.
The gauntlet was picked up by local climbers Tom Fyfe, George Graham and Jack
Clarke, who reached the summit proper on Christmas Day 1894. At one point expedi-
tion leader Fyfe (who would later become chief guide at the Hermitage in Mt Cook Vil-
lage) dangled without footholds over the yawning abyss. He wrote, 'I'm afraid that the
reckless way in which we romped over those last rocks was very foolhardy, but one
would indeed need to be phlegmatic not to get a little excited on such an occasion.'
In 1913 Australian climber Freda du Faur became the first woman to reach the sum-
mit, much to the disdain of society ladies who considered such activity damaging to
her 'reputation'. Fair enough, too. A lady in trousers? Out adventuring with the men-
folk? Good grief!
In 1948 a young Auckland beekeeper named Edmund Hillary joined legendary local
guide Harry Ayers in a party climbing the hitherto unconquered south ridge. Ayers
would consider this climb his best ever feat, while Hillary lauded him for 'that subtle
science of snow and ice craft that only experience can really teach.' It stood the young
climber in good stead: just five years later he and Tenzing Norgay would summit the
world's highest peak, Mt Everest.
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Planning
WHEN TO TRAMP
Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park does experience spells of fine weather, but it is long periods
of foul weather for which it is most noted. The annual rainfall in Mt Cook Village is
4000mm and it rains an average of 160 days a year. The short tracks around Mt Cook Vil-
lage can be done at any time of year, when conditions allow. The Mueller Hut Route, as
with any alpine tramp, should be done during the traditional Aoraki/Mt Cook climbing sea-
son, from mid-November to late March, although trampers should closely monitor current
conditions and heed forecasts.
