Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
just inside the gates), when the military government decided to reconstruct two of the throne
halls.Todaythepeelinghallsarebestviewedfromadistance andthere'snorealreasontogo
inside.
Hanlin
20km southeast of Shwebo • Site and museum Tues-Sun 9.30am-4.30pm; K5000 • Motorbike taxis charge
K12,000return;togetthereunderyourownsteamfromShweboheadsouthoftowntowardsMandalay,turning
left at the Shwebo Canal, which you follow for 10km until a turning signposted “Han Lin Pyu City” (in Eng-
lish); Hanlin village is 9km down this road
Between the first and ninth centuries AD the walled city of
Hanlin
flourished in the bone-
dry hills southeast of Shwebo, one of the largest and most important Pyu city-states. Arche-
ologists have been systematically excavating the area enclosed by Hanlin's rectangular brick
walls(3.2kmlongby1.6kmwide)since1962,uncoveringinscribedstones,coinsandattract-
ive jewellery made from gold and semi-precious stones, samples of which are on display in
the surprisingly informative
museum
in Hanlin village. The dig has also exposed several of
the city's curved gates as well as mass graves. The latter being covered by locked huts, it's
best to visit the museum first and find someone who has the keys to accompany you as you
tour the scattered sights.
At present there are 33 excavation sites scattered across the countryside north of Hanlin vil-
lage. While these are signed in English, it's a good idea to have a local driver or guide to
show you the way. Pits 26, 29 and 30 all contain human remains, with some of the skeletons
in Pit 29 still wearing bracelets around their bony wrists. Further afield, site 22 is an interest-
ing religious building with altars of polished stones arranged on three sides.
HANLIN
village is an attractive place in its own right, with hot springs, salt wells and a
host of crumbling stupas to occupy you.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: SHWEBO AND AROUND
Bybusandtuk-tuk
Thebusstation isjustsouthofShweTazaPaya,withregulardepartures
to Mandalay and Monywa until mid-afternoon, and a daily service to Pakokku at 7.30am. To
Kyaukmyaung you'll need to take one of the regular tuk-tuks (K700), which leave from just
north of the market, or a pick-up (K500) departing from a side street 100m further east.
Destinations
Kyaukmyaung (regular; 1hr); Mandalay (hourly; 3hr); Monywa (hourly; 3hr);
Pakokku (daily; 6hr).
Bytrain
Shwebo's railway station is 2.5km north of the market, just inside the northern side
of the city moat. The town is on the main line between Mandalay and Myitkyina, with three
“up” and three “down” trains daily.
Destinations
Mandalay (3 daily; 5hr); Myitkyina (3 daily; 19hr); Naba (3 daily; 7hr).
