THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Myanmar - page 343

great views from most rooms (some of which have balconies) and the top-l evel breakfasting
hall, while the walk up and down will provide a nice workout for your legs. $35
Pine Hill Resort Oo Min Rd 081 50459, myanmarpinehill.com . Overpriced for sure,
but this is about as good as accommodation gets in little Kalaw. Pine-clad rooms are par for
the course in this town, but this hotel's manicured gardens and colonial-era architecture feel
genuinely special. Do bear in mind that it's loc ated in a quiet area 2km south of the town
centre - a plus for some, a minus for others. $95
Pine Land Inn Union Highway 081 50020, [e-mail] . Forget the
gloomy reception area: rooms here are surprisingly large for the price, even if it does some-
times feel as though the floor is about to give way beneath you: do your morning star-jumps
somewhereelse.It'scertainlyworthpayingtheextra$4foranensuite,thoughgo for aroom
away from the main road unless you fancy hearing truck horns all night. No wi-fi. $10
Winner Union Highway 081 50025, [e-mail] . A decent choice
just off the main road, with clean, carpeted rooms and amiable staff. It's an extra $5 for an
en-suite room, though those in the basement are often off ered at a discount - not a bad idea,
considering the occasionally noisy location. No wi-fi. $15
EATING AND DRINKING
A small town hosting a disproportionate number of tourists, it should come as little surprise
tolearnthatKalawhasadecentrangeofplacestoeat.Aswellastheplaceslistedhere,you'll
find plenty ofstreet shacks selling Shan noodles from the morning through to mid-afternoon.
CHEWING BETEL, KALAW-STYLE
Kalaw is one of the better places in the land to give the chewing of betel nut parcels a go.
While most travellers find the taste diabolical (and it's also carcinogenic), the fare on of-
fer in Kalaw can be surprisingly pleasant to munch on. Sweeter, tastier ingredients such as
green papaya and coconut are often added to the regular mix, while locals like the betel
nuts themselves lightly roasted, adding yet another nuance to the taste. Dozens of shacks
and tiny shops will sell you this local oddity, with the stretch south of the market a par-
ticularly happy hunting ground; figure on around K100 per parcel and, as ever, remember
to spit out the first few times your mouth starts to fill with saliva, as the slaked lime can
destroy your liver, as well as your teeth.
AungNyeinChanAung StationRd 08150662. Ifyoufancyeatinginaplacewherelocals
are guaranteed to outnumber tourists, this is your spot. There are no prices on the menu for
their mix of Burmese, Shan and Chinese dishes, but it'll generally come to K2000 or so for a
set of rice, main and sides. The Burmese food is served from 10.30am; as ever, the earlier in
thedayyoueatit,thelesstimeithashadtositaroundacquiringgerms. Daily8.30am-10pm.